Merrell Moab Mid Boots

If you’re after a lightweight, comfortable, breathable, waterproof hiking shoe then read on.

What Merrell say about the Moab Mid Gore-Tex®

A breath of fresh air never looked so good or performed so well. Get the versatility your various exploits demand
without losing your cool in this collection, which features an integrated mesh upper for ventilation. Hot weather has truly met its match.

UPPER/LINING

• Waterproof Dura leather and mesh upper
• Bellows tongue keeps debris out
• Synthetic leather toe cap and heel counter
• GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort Footwear lining protects feet and keeps them dry
• Breathable mesh lining treated with Aegis® Antimicrobial solution maintains foot comfort
• Ortholite® Anatomical Footbed

MIDSOLE/OUTSOLE

• Molded nylon arch shank
• Compression molded EVA footframe provides cushioning
• Merrell® air cushion in the heel absorbs shock and adds stability
• 5mm Sole lug depth
• Vibram® Multi-Sport Sole/TC5+ Rubber
• UK Men’s Sizes: 7-13 full sizes only
• EUROPE Men’s Sizes: 40-49
• Weight: 15.5oz (439g)

A closer look

Nice and grippy

The Moab Mid is stylish and well put together. The Dura leather and mesh upper is extremely breathable and keeps your feet from sweating.

I ordered a size 8 (my usual size) and found that they fit perfectly straight out of the box. They’re extremely comfortable and lightweight. I haven’t walked more than 10 miles at a time in them yet, but I have absolutely no doubt that I could walk all day in them without problems. And this is without any kind of ‘bedding in’.

I wore them for a day in the peak and spent some time scrambling over damp gritstone. They performed rather well considering they’re not really designed for climbing.

It was on my regular dog walking route that I stumbled across a test for the waterproofing. I happened to cross a field with very wet grass (about 3” long) wearing a pair of Converse All Stars trainers (I know, not the brightest move). In less than a minute my feet were squelching, completely wet through. I headed home and changed into the Moab Mid Boots for a second try. This time my feet remained perfectly dry, and I spent a good 15 minutes dragging them around, trying to get some water through. Pretty good considering the how breathable they are!

A good looking set of boots

Summary

These are not a technical climbing boot. They’re not B rated and won’t take a crampon. What they are is an excellent, lightweight hiking boot. They’re a perfect approach shoe, and I’ll certainly be wearing mine for summer mountain days, for; approach, scrambling and descending.

The Moab Mid Gore-Tex® Boots are available in 4 different colours:

• Dark Earth
• Walnut
• Beluga (featured in this review)
• Black

They’re available for both men and women.

If you fancy a pair, they cost £110 and you can buy them direct from Merrell.com.

Merrell Moab Mid Gore-Tex® Boots is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Best boots for mixed winter climbing in the UK
2. Which boots are best for mixed winter climbing in the UK?
3. Climbing equipment review – Mammut Ultimate Hoody

Rob Lonsdale clearly enjoying the Dinas Hoody

I was browsing the web a few weeks ago and came across a brand that caught my eye. StoneMonkey are a clothing and accessory brand aimed squarely at the adventure market.

I hadn’t really noticed StoneMonkey before so I foolishly assumed they were new. Not so, the brand has actually been around since 1994, how did I miss them?! The thing that caught my eye, and something which StoneMonkey pride themselves on is their attention to detail and build quality. everything is tested to destruction by people that like to play out.

I’m now the proud owner of 2 pieces from the StoneMonkey collection: The Dinas Supersnug Hoody and The Adrenaline Jacket (review to follow)

What StoneMonkey say about the Dinas Supersnug Hoody

Quality pullover hood by Stone Monkey. 85% supersoft peached cotton giving the ultimate in luxury and comfort. Snug fit with large waffle lined hood, chunky drawstring, kangaroo pocket and raw seam detail giving a lived-in feel and never take off quality. Stone Monkey heritage year 94 vintage appliqué graphic on the front

Looking good for an clean send

A closer look

The peached cotton is super soft. It feels really cosy to wear, perfect for Autumn days, bouldering at chilly crags. The attention to detail is really impressive, with imaginative use of texture inside the hood. I really liked the rough edges on the seams and the lettering on the front.

It’s machine washable at 40º, which is pretty essential for something you might wear for climbing or bouldering.

We took the hoody up to the Stanage North, in the Peak for a spot of bouldering, on a November’s day. Admittedly it was pretty mild weather, but the hoody felt really cosy over a t-shirt and made for some stylish photographs. What more could you want from an autumn bouldering top?

Summary

Concentrate...

This is a super stylish hoody, which is equally at home on a crag day as it is on a trip to the pub with your mates.

It’s available in grey marl (pictured in this review), or Chalked Black. If the ’94’ graphic on the Dinas isn’t your thing, take a look at the other hoodies in the StoneMonkey range.

At £69.00, this isn’t the cheapest of hoodies, but the quality is excellent and you won’t find every man and his dog wearing the same one, which certainly can’t be said for some other brands.

If you fancy one, you can buy direct from StoneMonkey.

StoneMonkey Dinas SuperSnug Hoody is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing equipment review – Mammut Ultimate Hoody
2. Review: Nixon “The Duke” watch (and some impressive customer service)
3. Winter Bouldering League at Harrogate Climbing Centre (Round 6)

Andy Kirkpatrick is a man who’s not afraid to look unflinchingly at himself in the mirror, and he’s not afraid to write about what he finds.

Covering Kirpatrick’s life from June 2001 to January 2005, the book takes in Sheffield, Wales and Hull alongside the more glamorous and predictable locations of the Alps, the USA and Patagonia. The testing climbs are described in minute and loving detail: the gear used, the bivvy spot, the food and drink remaining. Often, it seems, disaster strikes and so you chuckle along with Andy’s tales of leaving a crucial bag of karabiners and nuts in the back of a taxi on his way to Patagonia, or of dropping a haulbag and portaledge from the Dru. The dry humour and gift for self-deprecation that Kirkpatrick has long displayed are certainly present here, and he even directs a disparaging look at Ian Parnell on one occasion, as his frequent climbing partner has a series of mishaps with a range of expensive cameras.

Despite often undercutting the stories of his climbing with humour at his own expense, Kirkpatrick acknowledges that there is truth in Ian Parnell’s assessment of him as “the most ambitious climber he’d met”. Kirkpatrick has always been ready to look more deeply into his motivations, and Cold Wars provides the clearest insight yet into the mind of a world-class alpinist.  Reflecting on a trip to the Alps with Parnell in 2003, Kirkpatrick comments that “each route [is about] chasing that feeling of being on the edge between success and failure, life and death” and his drive to succeed, to prove himself to the mountaineering community and to justify the conflict he feels in leaving behind his family to go to the mountains, is evident throughout the book. In many ways, I found myself being reminded of the picture painted of Don Whillans by Jim Perrin in his biography The Villain; a strange mixture of insecurity covered by a shield of arrogance and a determination to prove himself, a chippy working-class Northerner uncomfortable when surrounded by ‘middle class public schoolboys’ on the ski slopes of the Alps

Throughout the book, Andy explores his own relationship with his (mostly) absent father, and his ability to summon up his childhood feelings casts an especially poignant light on his feelings about his own children when he finds himself in dangerous or unpleasantly hazardous positions. His self-imposed struggles are also compared to those endured by his brother Robin, one of the few non-climbers within the book’s pages, who served as a crew member on RAF Hercules planes. The final chapter of the book, in which Rob’s life seems to hang in the balance as Hercules is shot down over Iraq, is a moving testament to the enduring power of family ties, ties which Kirkpatrick had often resented when comparing his life to that of his peers.

Andy Kirkpatrick

In the preface, Kirkpatrick says that while Psychovertical answered the question “Why do you climb?”, Cold Wars asks the question “What is the price?”. Although the explicit question is about Kirkpatrick’s own choices and the impact on his family, throughout the book both he and the reader are left contemplating the choices of those climbers who pay the ultimate price. Scattered throughout the book are the names of climbers who died in earlier decades, and stories of those Kirkpatrick has known personally who have suffered injuries, accidents or not returned at all.  His final chapter suggests that Kirkpatrick has the will to try and resolve the conflicts he faces, to fulfil both family and climbing ambitions. A book that is moving, powerful and hugely entertaining, often within a single chapter, Cold Wars joins Psychovertical as one of the new classics of mountaineering literature.

If you would like a copy…

• Andy Kirkpatrick – Cold Wars from Andy’s web site
• Andy Kirkpatrick – Cold Wars from The Climbing Book Shop

Andy is touring the UK during November, giving a series of talks about Cold Wars. All the details can be found on the Speakers from the Edge website.

Cold Wars – Andy Kirkpatrick is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Andy Kirkpatrick’s talk at ShAFF review
2. Interview with Andy Kirkpatrick
3. psychovertical Winter rack

Mammut Obelisk DLX

Last month, having arranged a weekend of climbing in Snowdonia, I realised rather late in the day that I didn’t have any approach shoes (I had thrown my old ones away after trashing them in a rare spate of gardening).

Luckily whilst signing in for a climbing session at Rock City in Hull, I noticed that they had the Mammut Obelisk DLX on special offer: £59.96 (previously £79.94). On closer inspection they appeared to be just the ticket, a nice looking shoe with the promise of some technical ability over rough terrain. Sold!

What the manufacturer says

The best-seller from new Urban Climbing series is noted for its lightness, tailored fit and design. Derived from the Mammut® climbing skins is the asymmetric design, which shifts pressure onto the big toe; the almost allround protective rubber edge and Liquid Rubber as well as the Spider sole with the integrated Mammut® Spider Grip sole concept, which offers maximum adhesion, good foot roll behaviour and grip on more challenging terrain.

Design and build quality

As I mentioned earlier, the Obelisk is a very good looking shoe. They’re available in black and red, a kind of charcoal grey and flouro green, and the ladies version is grey and baby blue. I opted for the funky looking charcoal grey and flouro green.

Like all Mammut’s stuff the construction is top drawer. Neat stitching, reinforcement where it’s needed, gear loops for when you want to change into your climbing shoes. The sole profile looks really thin from the outside, but there’s plenty of shock absorption material inside. At the tip, it features something labelled as the ‘climbing zone’. On mine, this is finished in the flouro yellow and has an edge to it, could it be used for edging on small chips?

Performance

Me, high up on Tryfan's North Ridge in the Mammut Obelisk DLX

Like many trips to Snowdonia, mine was punctuated with regular and persistent showers. We opted to go for easy climbs and scrambles, which we knew we would be able to complete rain or shine. I used the Obelisk all weekend in a variety of conditions, as an approach shoe . As such they were pretty well behaved, they were comfortable and worked well, scrambling over broken rock.

Coming back down on Saturday and Sunday, I have to admit I ended up on my backside on several occasions on the wet rocks of the steep mountain descents of Tryfan. This might have happened anyway, but I’m not totally convinced that these shoes work that well on wet rock.

On the Sunday we opted to scramble Tryfan’s north ridge. There’s nothing overly technical on this climb so I left my rock shoes in the car. We picked the hardest lines we could find, even managing to find a nice exposed ramp & corner to climb, behind the cannon shaped rock 3/4 of the way up. On reasonable sized footholds (up to an inch in depth), the Obelisks performed really well. Anything much less than this and there just isn’t the required stiffness, despite the promising looking edge of the aforementioned ‘climbing zone’.

Summary

The Mammut Obelisk DLX is a great looking, comfortable approach shoe which can be used on easy climbs and scrambles too. Just don’t expect too much of it when it turns wet or like me you will end up with a sore bum!

I would say they’re perfect as a summer approach shoe.

If you fancy a pair, We Love Mountains still have some in stock: Mammut Obelisk DLX

Mammut Obelisk DLX Approach Shoe Review is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing equipment review: La Sportiva Katana, climbing shoes
2. Climbing equipment review: La Sportiva Arco climbing shoes
3. Climbing equipment review – Mad Rock Nomad climbing shoes

What the manufacturer says

Our most breathable synthetic base-layer keeps your dry and comfortable

Made for early season singletrack and long, sweeping Yosemite leads, Capilene® 2 Lightweight’s open knit invites airflow and provides excellent wicking, exceptional breathability and fast dry times. When worn beneath layers, it’s also insulative enough for chilly days. The rib-knit collar is pliable and soft, raglan sleeves have offset seams that won’t chafe beneath pack straps, and side seams roll forward for smooth layering. Made of 4-oz 100% polyester (54% recycled) with Gladiodor® odor control for the garment.

Tech info

Patagonia’s Capilene® garments are made from a recycled and recyclable polyester which wicks moisture away from the body, keeping you nice and dry. Whether you’re using the garment as a base-layer or on its own, keeping dry will prevent you from becoming cold when you stop moving.

Patagonia have also treated the the fabric with something they call Gladiodor®, which they claim reduces unwanted smells from sweating.

First impressions

Me testing the wicking properties of the Patagonia Capiline t-shirt, on a balmy summer's eve at Almscliff

My first impression on taking the t-shirt out of the bag is that it looks much better in the flesh than it does in pictures on the web, the dark green part is a kind of 2-tone fabric. It looks really well constructed and feels really light. Patagonia have opted to print the washing instructions directly onto the material rather than stitching a tag in. This means you don’t have any irritating tag rubbing on your neck, and I’m sure it is a more environmentally sound way of producing the garment, but I can’t read it at all so they might as well have left them off altogether. The logo is a bit strange too, it’s printed in a pale grey…. on a green t-shirt, making it difficult to see. Looking at more pictures of the t-shirt on the web it looks like this has been addressed, as the logo appears to be dark green – much better.

In use

This t-shirt has immediately become my favourite t-shirt to climb in. It feels really light and stretchy, providing great freedom of movement. It keeps me really cool and I think it looks great in action pictures.

I’ve been pretty much wearing the t-shirt to death over the past 3 weeks and it is starting to show signs of bobbling. That said, I couldn’t read the washing instructions so I’ve been washing it at 40º. Looking at Patagonia’s web site now, I can see I should have been washing it cold – oops! Like all the best outdoor activity garments, it’s already almost dry when you pull it from the washing machine, 20 minutes on the line and it’s ready to wear. No ironing required!

I’m not really a stinky person (or at least I don’t think so), so I can’t tell you if the Gladiodor® thing works. However, I’ve met quite a few, let’s say ‘distinctive smelling’ climbers over the years, so if it does work, well done Patagonia!

The Capilene® 2 T-shirt is available in:

• Black
• Channel Blue – Continental Blue
• Ultramarine
• Red clover – lychee
• White
• They don’t appear to have Forest Glen – Watercress (the one pictured, that I have. Though I noticed that it is available in the US section of the Patagonia store)

Where to buy

You can buy the Capilene® 2 from Patagonia.com. From late September you’ll also be able to buy from the new Patagonia Store, opening in Covent Garden, London (date TBC).

Patagonia Capilene® Lightweight 2 T-Shirt Review is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. And our first t-shirt winner is…
2. Patagonia set to open a new flagship store in London this summer
3. Climbing equipment review – Mammut Ultimate Hoody

The viewer is treated to slick editing and for the most part high quality footage. The climbing is accompanied and complemented by a fantastic soundtrack of electro and contemporary hip-hop beats from artists such as Pyramid, Glitch Mob, & Gramatic to name three.

Paul gives a running commentary throughout the film of the problems he tries  (…and ultimately succeeds on) highlighting the difficulties and intricacies of the problem. Some may find it depressing to find out how hard the problems actually are, especially compared to the relative ease with which P-Rob dispatches them…pay particular attention to the close-up of his fingers when he successfully sends Angama, the word grim doesn’t even come close to describing that one.

At 20 minutes long this film is the perfect length to watch when you want to get psyched in your coffee break at work, ready for an evening session and is also a good one if you have a particularly short attention span.

The final bonus about the film is the price. Available from HDclimbingvideos.com the download is priced at $6.99 which works out at around £4.29. BARGAIN.

Awesome bouldering, inspiring soundtrack, superb commentary and a whole load of psyche, ALL for under a fiver?! What more can I say?
Do what I did…download it. Watch it. Watch it again … Go bouldering. Then watch it some more!

The Schengen Files – Film Review is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing film reviews – A bit more about some of the films coming to ShAFF – part 2
2. Climbing film reviews – A bit more about some of the films coming to ShAFF
3. Improve your climbing grade

The new GriGri2 from Petzl

When I first heard in July 2010 that Petzl were to release an updated version of the GriGri my thoughts followed one particular chain, and that was something along the lines of …

“Petzl must think they’ve got something pretty special going on if they are updating the GriGri”

The GriGri has become one of the ‘must-have’ pieces of kit for sport climbers the world over. Many have tried to replicate its success with similar products, the likes of the Elderid Eddy and the Trango Cinch to name just two. Yet none have come close to the volume of sales that Petzl have achieved with the GriGri. Some say that this is down to a hefty marketing budget and the backing of the world’s best climbers, and I’d be lying if I said that I didn’t agree a little bit. But you could also argue that the reason for its popularity is the fact that it is simply viewed by the vast majority as the best product.

In January of this year I managed to get my hands on one of the few pre-sale units of the GriGri2 in the UK. Over the past 6 months I have put it to good use, testing both in and outdoors, in the UK and other European countries. So the question is, does the GriGri2 measure up to its bigger, older sibling?

Shape, Size, Weight

The new GriGri2 on the right, compared to the original

The first noticeable change to the original design is that the GriGri2 is considerably smaller than its older brother. Petzl have reduced the size of the device by 25% and in turn have reduced the weight by 20% too.

Smaller and lighter is good news for any climber. It means less weight to carry to the crag, less weight on your harness and less space taken up in your rucksack.

Aside from the obvious advantages, the new size and shape of the device also means that it fits much more neatly into the palm of your hand, making operations like paying out and taking in rope much easier. By comparison the old design is much larger and has a less ergonomic feel.

Handle

Using the GriGri2

Thread your rope, attach the device to your harness and belay your partner to the top. When it’s time to lower them down you’ll notice the next significant alteration; the handle. Shorter, thinner and set at a new angle, the new design makes for a much more controlled (and therefore a safer) descent. On the original GriGri the lever angle and shape made it very easy to pull the handle all the way back… and thus lower the climber to the ground VERY quickly, giving the climber a sensation of falling rather than being lowered.

The new angle and length of the handle also means that unless you have hands like pixie it’s very difficult to use more than two or three fingers to lower the climber safely to the ground.

Rope Diameters

Probably one of the biggest motivators for Petzl to develop the GriGri2 is the new range of rope diameters that can be used safely with the device. The GriGri2 can be used safely on ropes with a diameter between 8.9 – 11 mm and works best with ropes with a diameter between 9.4 mm – 10.3 mm. This is a huge improvement on the original design, especially considering that a lot of ropes used in sport climbing are now between 9.2mm – 9.7mm with climbers looking for the lightest ropes, to shed every spare gram with the hope of grabbing their next project send.

It is also considerably less ‘snatchy’ on ropes when paying out slack for the climber on ‘the sharp end’. It runs smoothest if you belay with a little slack in the system and feed the rope through the device rather than pulling it through, this makes for a much more comfortable experience for both climber and belayer. No more pulling the leader from the climb as you frantically pull on the rope, locking the device up.

Price

Another great thing about the GriGri2 is that it is competitively priced; you can pick one up from pretty much any climbing equipment shop, either online or in-store for around £60. That’s over £30 cheaper than the RRP of the Edelrid Eddy and about the same price as the Trango Cinch.

Product Recall

In June of this year Petzl initiated a recall on all GriGri2 devices with a serial number between 10326 and 11136. This was due to a mechanical fault with the new handle design on these particular units which caused the handle to remain open if an excessive force was applied. If you have a unit with a serial number between 10326 and 11136 then please contact Lyon Equipment Limited (UK distributor) for a replacement. Any GriGri2 with a serial number beyond 11137 has had the handle strengthened and is completely safe for use.

Both Petzl and Lyon Equipment Ltd were extremely transparent with this recall and efficiently. Faulty units have typically been replaced within 5 working days.

Overall Verdict

Comparing the GriGri2 to the original, the GriGri2 is on the right

Whether you are a plastic pulling wall goer or a self-confessed rock jock, if sport climbing is your thing then your world will be a better place with a GriGri2 in it. It’s a great device for all you ‘tradders’ and ‘aiders’ out there too, making descending down a single rope easy (very useful if you’re cleaning a route, abseiling into a crag on a fixed line, or ascending back up one). I’ve even found mine really effective on one of my many route setting days down at Kendal Wall (I usually use the amazing Petzl Stop).

The new design is a massive improvement on the old, in terms of safety, aesthetics and use, and the price represents good value for money. At the beginning of this review I asked if the GriGri2 was going to carry on the excellent reputation of its predecessor as ‘the best’… in my opinion, the answer is a resounding YES!

Check out the full instructions on how to use the GriGri2 properly, over at Petzl’s web site

The New Petzl GriGri2 – Full Review is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Product recall on Petzl GriGri2
2. GRIGRI 2, the new Petzl belay device with assisted braking | Petzl
3. ANGE, new ultra-light carabiners from Petzl

The NUT

If like me you’re an iPhone user, you’ve probably thought about climbing with your iPhone but been too worried that you’ll end up scratching it, denting or worse, completely smashing it to pieces. My solution has often been to simply leave it in the car, or on multi-pitch climbs, wrap it up and stuff it right into the centre of my pack. This is a shame really because the iPhone has a great camera, and it would be nice to be able to stuff it your pocket, ready for those Kodak moments. Or if climbing to music is your thing, plugging in the headphones and cranking to the sounds of Chris de Burgh (ahem, maybe not).

So what we’re looking for is a kind of hard shell which will house the iPhone while allowing us to use it for calls, music, photo’s etc… Cue The NUT from Okoqu.

The NUT is a hard, clear case, which Okoqu claim to protect your iPhone 3G / 3GS from crushing, scuffing, scratching, or cracking. All this, while allowing you to plug in your headphones, use the touch screen and take pictures. It’s also weatherproof (that’s weatherproof, not waterproof – it’ll keep the rain off but don’t go swimming with it).

The first thing you notice about the NUT is that while it’s big and chunky, it looks great! It’s made from a clear, high impact polycarbonate, with a nice grippy elastomer running around the edges at the back. The elastomer part is available in a funky range of colours (very Apple – Steve Jobs would be proud).

I have an iPhone 4, so rather disappointingly my device didn’t really fit into my demo NUT properly, however I did manage to force it in and close it up so I could test the touch screen. It works perfectly.

I think the NUT is a bit of a design classic. It doesn’t try to be really slimline, it embraces its chunkiness and complements the lines of the phone perfectly. The superb design doesn’t end at the product either. As a former graphic designer, I love the branding, and the packaging is spot on. The instructions come in a kind of Rizzla style cigarette paper pack. What’s more, it’s designed and manufactured here in the UK.

The NUT is a great piece of kit for anyone that’s into climbing, snowboarding, mountain biking or similar (well me really). Any sport where your kit can get bashed about and face some harsh weather, but where your iPhone can come in handy from both a fun (pictures and music) perspective, but also, more seriously should you come a cropper and need to call for help.

If you’re rocking an iPhone 3G or 3GS you can buy a NUT from Okoqu’s online store. I’m afraid at the moment it’s a bit Henry Ford though. It seems you can have any colour as long as it’s black. I’m sure there will be some more colours in stock soon.

This isn’t the cheapest iPhone case at £34.99, but it looks like it’ll make an excellent job of protecting your iPhone. Apple are currently selling the 3GS for £428, so it’s certainly something you wouldn’t want to break!

I’m gutted that the NUT is only available for the iPhone 3G / 3GS at the moment. Please send me the iPhone 4 version when you’ve finished it Okoqu!

Take Your iPhone Climbing Without the Fear of Wrecking it – The NUT is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. 5 essential iphone apps for rock climbers
2. Product review: The Mammut Mountain Safety iPhone app
3. UKC Launches an iPhone App

I spotted Bamboo Chicken Productions a few weeks ago on Vimeo. I loved the style of their films and decided to send them a message asking if I could feature one of them on this site. Not only did they kindly agree, but they also sent me a copy of their full length DVD; Welsh Connections, a Film by Dave Brown.

I’m a huge fan of climbing in Wales. Snowdonia is probably my favourite climbing venue so it was huge thrill for me to watch a full length DVD featuring some fantastic Welsh routes.

The first thing I’ll say about the film is that you get a lot for your money. This DVD is packed! The second thing is that it looks beautiful. The camera work is stunning and makes a great job of showcasing the jaw dropping scenery and the atmosphere of the climbing.

The action starts at Lower Pen Trywn, with Pete Robins tackling Liquid Ambar, a sport climb which when it was first climbed by Jerry Moffatt in 1990 was deemed Britain’s hardest route. It had since only seen 2 further ascents by Ben Moon and Rich Simpson. Pete immediately struck me as being one the most ripped climbers I’ve ever seen! It’s hugely entertaining watching him fight this monster of a climb.

Next we head over to Scimitar Ridge for some trad. A first ascent attempt by Johhny Dawes. This film is super dramatic and really captures the utter desperation I’m sure every climber has felt at some point.

After some quality swearing from Johhny it’s over to Pembroke for some super hard trad with Tim Emmett. Prepare for some bum clenching moments, on super steep climbing with big fall potential. Tim’s composure is incredible! Watch out for a mega fall, after which Tim says to his belayer “That was like going base jumping mate!”.

The next section features Nick Bullock making a first trad ascent on some really suspect, loose rock. He names the climb, No Country for Old Men.

Next it’s up to Upper Pen Trwyn, Pill Box Wall for some bouldering with Chris Doyle. Chris has spent a huge amount of time at this wall and has put together a huge and painful looking traverse.

There’s more bouldering at Pen Trwyn at Parisella’s Cave. This looks like a great wet weather venue for the really strong and committed boulderer.

After this we’re over to some Llanberis Slate to watch Pete Whittaker take on a hard sport route, featuring belay and some strong encouragement from his mum. This is a real lesson in bridging technique!

Next it’s Tanygrisiau for a first ascent of what looks like a ridiculously hard boulder problem called New Noise, V12, climbed by Chris Davies.

Then it’s back to Pembroke for some super atmospheric deep water soloing with Gav Symonds and Tim Emmett on San Simeon.

After this it’s off to Gogarth for some desperate trad climbing with Nick Bullock and James McHaffie on-sighting Yellow shark, a really atmospheric and scary looking climb.

Feature presentation ‘To The Rainbow’

‘To the Rainbow’ features, Paul Pritchard making a return to climbing after a 13 year break following a head injury which left him with hemiplegia.

Paul joins his old climbing partner, Johhny Dawes on Rainbow Slab. Paul’s ascent is truly inspiring. He manages with one hand what many people would struggle to accomplish with the use of both hands.

As if all these films were not enough, the DVD includes extras too!

A great buy. Check it out!

Climbing DVD Review – Welsh Connections from Bamboo Chicken Productions is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing DVD review – Psyche 2 by Posing Productions
2. Climbing DVD review: Psyche by Posing Productions
3. Climbing DVD review – Grit Flick, from Posing Productions

Trion:Z Dual Loop Bracelet

OK, it’s not strictly climbing equipment but when I got an email from Hayden over at Trion:Z asking me to test their magnetic therapy bracelet, I was intrigued.

Reading the Trion:Z web site, it appears that many athletes are using magnetic therapy to improve their performance in their chosen sport. Hmmm, that sounds appealing, if I could gain just a little extra performance I would be happy. Every little helps right?

What is magnetic therapy?

The theory behind magnet therapy is that when a magnet is placed around a specific joint or body part, more blood is attracted to that area, leading to an increase in oxygen and nutrients. The combination of increased oxygen and nutrients leads to a faster healing process.

Magnetic therapy devices are now registered as prescribable medical devices in over 50 countries worldwide, commonly used within Complimetary and Alternative medicine and is a and non-invasive natural therapy, deemed a ‘no health risk’ by the World Health Organisation.

People are using magnetic therapy for a range of health / performance related benefits including pain relief, mood enhancement and even the symptoms of chronic fatigue.

The test

It’s going to be really difficult for me to test this in any kind of scientific way, but I do climb very regularly and I have a very good idea of what makes a good day or a bad day for me. So what I’ll do is wear the product for the next 2 weeks and train / climb as usual. I’ll then report back and let you know if I experienced any difference in my performance, mood or energy levels.

Watch this space…

Trion:Z Magnetic therapy bracelet is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing equipment review – Mad Rock Nomad climbing shoes
2. Test&Feel – Events – Mammut
3. Climbing techniques – a plan to raise your game: Week 10 – Improving your mental strength