I have chosen a finger board for two main reasons. Firstly I am going to Margalef in October so will need white hot pocket strength. I’m hoping that the use of the finger board over the summer will give me the pocket strength I need. Secondly I used to be able to dead hang one armed, using a crimp, on a campus rung, for 30 seconds. I can’t even hang the rung, using a crimp, one armed anymore! I built this finger strength up by doing short repetitive moments on very small crimps (6-10 moves), on a relatively gently angled board, first thing in the morning and then a normal bouldering session in the evening. My board is too steep for this sort of training now, so a finger board provides an ideal way to replicate the training I did at this time.

Having never used a finger board, this will provide an excellent way to measure what potential improvements it may bring to my climbing. At the end of the four weeks I will try a series of problems with a variety of open hand and crimp hand positions, I tried at the start of the period and see what improvements  (if any) I have made.

Metolius Simulator 3D Finger Board

The equipment I have chosen is a Metolius Simulator 3D finger board. This finger board is designed with ergonomics in mind. The holds are positioned in a broad arc around the central section. This is a very natural position when doing double handed deadhangs or pullups, as the angle of holds match the angle of your arms. It certainly feels a more comfy position to hold, than traditionally designed boards I have tried recently. Although there is a horizontal central section for single armed work, I was concerned that the curve would make using the majority of the holds more difficult to use than a conventional board. In practice however because you tend to turn your body so that it’s at right angles to the board for one arm work, the curve works very well, so long as you use the right side of the board for right arm work and visa versa.

The board has four rows of holds, each arranged slightly further forward than the others, so your forearms don’t catch on the board. The top row of holds are a mixture of jugs and two different sized slopers. The second and third row of holds contains four and three finger holds in three different sizes. The bottom row contains two sizes of two finger pockets and another four finger hold. All these holds offered a natural progression as you get stronger, apart from the two finger pockets. I do feel there needs to be an inbetween size as I can hang the larger ones fairly easily but not the smaller ones at all. I can overcome this by using one of the three finger holds with two fingers (you lose the ability to torque your fingers in the pockets then) or adding extra weight. Overall the combination of holds allows the board to be used by all abilities. There are jugs for begineers to do things like pullups or for the more advanced people to do negatives and one arm pullups, right down to small crimps and tiny two finger pockets for getting the ultimate finger strength.

The holds themselves are very finger friendly. The smooth curves and fine textured surface hasn’t resulted in any sore skin or sore joints after my first sessions.

My first session on the board threw up some interesting anomalies with my finger strength. The first thing I noticed is that now I have switched to an open handed climbing style, is that my open handed strength is much better than my crimp strength. Although this has reduced the number of finger problems I have, most of the routes I climb are crimpy, so it will be holding me back. The second thing I found was that my ring and little fingers are stronger than my index and middle finger! This was a real shock as I assumed that it would be the other way round.

So the plan is to specifically target my ring and middle fingers using two finger pockets to get them more in line with the rest of my fingers. Given that these fingers should be my strongest I’m hoping that improvements in this area should bring good gains. I will also be doing some work in the crimped position to replicate the style of training I used to do.

Metolius supply an excellent user guide with the board which goes through many of the techniques you can use on the board. This goes through in detail how to warmup, warm down, recover between goes and add additional load. It also provides specific training sessions based on your overall ability. More details can be found at their website.

For my training I’m using some of their techniques such as maximum deadhangs as well as repeaters and encores. This will be done towards the end of my bouldering session when I am well warmed up and not fatigued.

I’ll write an updated review in four weeks when I have finished my block of training. Hopefully by then I will have seen improvements in the weak areas that the finger board highlighted and an overall increase in my climbing ability.

For more details on the Metolius Simulator 3D Finger Board, vist the Metolius Website.

Metolius Simulator 3D Finger Board for Climbing Improvement is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Metolius Rock Rings 3D Review
2. Moon Original School Holds
3. Sling Training for Climbing – Update

DMM Alpha Trad Carabiner

I recently received a set of DMM’s new flagship traditional climbing quickdraw, the Alpha Trad.  As soon as you as you pick up one of new Alpha Trad’s you realise that with this quickdraw DMM have really tried to break the mould, by creating a product that incorporates a lot of thought about the climbers requirements when they are leading. This has been achieved through the use of clever design features, with the overall aim of reducing the time spent clipping and the risk of potential cross loading.

From an aesthetic point of view, DMM have created a beautifully designed and engineered carabiner, as well as manufacturing them to the highest specifications. It took me a while, from picking up the first one to actually put it back down!

All the carabiners are manufactured on site in Wales, ensuring that all products are designed, manufactured and tested to the highest specification. Using the latest hot forged I-Beam construction has enabled DMM to keep the weight of a single Alpha to just 34g, without compromising on strength. DMM are certainly one of the leading experts in the climbing field of hot forging. They have recently introduced a whole range  of hot forged cams, ice axe shafts and nuts. This expertise has facilitated designs, weights and enhanced features that simply wouldn’t have been possible with cold forging.

DMM are fanatical about the quality and safety of their designs. Their carabiners are rigorously tested at every stage of the manufacturing process. In addition to the gate opening and gate closed tests required by law, DMM go the extra mile with a host of extra tests, resulting in some of the most extensively tested carabiners that money can buy.

With the Trad, DMM have adopted the wiregate approach. This offers a number of advantages over the traditional solid gate. The first of these is the reduced weight, because of the lower metal content and the wire forming part of the spring mechanism itself. From a safety point of view the lower mass reduces ‘gate flutter’ during a fall situation, reducing the risk of it opening and causing failure of the carabiner. From a clipping point of view the wiregate has a flat surface, which provides a wider gate opening than a solid gate.

As soon as you pick up a set of Alpha Trad quickdraw the most apparent thing is just how light they feel. Having been mainly sport climbing lately, I had forgotten about the weight impact of a trad rack. With a rack of 10 extenders weighing 770 grams, the weight was considerably less that the set of wires I was using.

DMM Alpha Trad showing grip and rubber stitched into quickdraw

When I was on a route and removed the first quickdraw off my harness, some of the design features of the Alpha immediately become clear. The kinked back and the grip on the back and below the wiregate of the Alpha Trad, gives you enhanced grip and reduced risk of fumbling as you remove the quickdraw from your harness and clip through the gear and rope.  This will be even more apparent if your hands have gone numb during a gritstone winter or you are wearing gloves on a Scottish mixed route.

As I clipped the Trad through my first piece of protection, the clever nose and asymmetrical wiregate design really stood out. By making the wire close within the carabiner itself, DMM have created a very smooth nose profile, which is impossible to snag on your protection and enables the rope to pass very smoothly through the gate. The gate itself has a nice balance between having enough tension to stop accidental opening/gate flutter/accidental unclipping and still being easy to clip. A chat with Simon Marsh of DMM revealed that the Alpha gate required a good deal of attention in the design process, as the tolerances and specifications are tight. They have used an offset shape to the gate to help create the correct tension across the whole range of movement, whilst still making it easy to use in either hand. The final kink on the wire gate leg as it connects to the nose and the low profile nose design itself also helps reduce the risk of accidental unclipping because the leg forces the rope over the nose rather than letting the rope fall into a gate/nose recess.

The gate asymmetry does actually make the carabiner feel different when clipping with your right or left hand. It actually feels really nice and smooth when clipping the protection with your right hand and slightly more awkward when clipping with your left. The gate opening is also slightly larger when clipping with your right rather than left. It’s not a major issue, but does feel unusual when you first use the quickdraws.

Clipping the rope into the Trad is made much easier by the shape of the carabiner. By adding a bend to the back, the wiregate has more room to open, resulting in a wider area to clip the rope through. Once the rope is clipped, this shape also ensures that the rope is placed correctly within the carabiner and the risk of cross loading is minimised.

I have been using a mixture of wiregates and bent gates over the years and still feel that the wiregate has a way to go before it is as easy to clip as a well made bent gate. In fact the DMM Mamba is still my prefered quickdraw for hard climbing.  The recent relaunch of this product has been welcomed by many people I know, as well as myself. DMM are offering a bent gate version of the Alpha and I would be really keen to test this to see how it compares with the wiregate Trad. I would be happy for a small weight penalty in return for the smoothest possible clipping action.

DMM Alpha Trad showing rope seating position

When leading I had no problems with the carabiner rotating in the quickdraw. DMM have stitched the rubber within the quickdraw, making rotating a carabiner on the quickdraw almost impossible. Until now alternative solutions based around a variety of different rubber rings have still resulted in difficult clips due to carabiner rotation. In fact they make it harder as the rubber makes it much more difficult to turn the carabiner round before you can clip the rope through. I have seen this design before on other manufactures quickdraws and the rubber failed after a month of use. DMM have attempted to overcome this issue by stitching thicker rubber into the quickdraw. So far I haven’t seen any undue signs of wear, but time will tell.

Fortunately I was lucky enough not to take a fall during the test! To help protect the rope itself the hot forging process has created a flatter surface where the rope seats. The effectively disperses the forces over a wider area of the rope, to reduce the overall rope wear.

I had received a variety of different length quickdraws from DMM.  For low drag situations I had the 12cm, 11mm Dyneema quickdraw. As the potential drag increased I also had the option to use the longer 18cm and 25cm quickdraws. The routes I was trying crossed a mixture of terrain from small roofs to slabs. For my rack I would take 4 each of the 12 and 18cm quickdraws and 2 of the 25cm quickdraws.

DMM Alpha Trad 12, 18 and 25cm Quickdraws

Because of the extra cost associated with engineering such a complex and innovative product this is at the premium end of the quickdraw market. Typical retail prices start at £9 for the carabiner and £19 for the 12cm quickdraw. For all the features packed into this quickdraw this is money certainly worth paying. For someone looking to purchase a new set of quickdraws or add to their existing ones, this product should be at the top of your list. Although the design is based around traditional climbing, I have been happily using them as sport climbing quickdraws as well. However given the choice for sport routes I would opt for the the solid bent gate version called the Alpha Sport or the Mamba. For those people really focused on the lowest possible weight in their quickdraw there is also the Alpha light, which includes many of the design features of the Trad.

Our thanks go to DMM for the support they gave us in making this review. For the Alpha Trad specification and feature video visit the DMM Website.

DMM Alpha Trad Quickdraws Review is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing equipment review – Wild Country ‘Wild Wire’ quickdraws
2. Wild Country Helium Carabiner Review
3. Climbing equipment review – ‘Trigger Gate’ Carabiner by Mad Rock

Merrell Moab Mid Boots

If you’re after a lightweight, comfortable, breathable, waterproof hiking shoe then read on.

What Merrell say about the Moab Mid Gore-Tex®

A breath of fresh air never looked so good or performed so well. Get the versatility your various exploits demand
without losing your cool in this collection, which features an integrated mesh upper for ventilation. Hot weather has truly met its match.

UPPER/LINING

• Waterproof Dura leather and mesh upper
• Bellows tongue keeps debris out
• Synthetic leather toe cap and heel counter
• GORE-TEX® Performance Comfort Footwear lining protects feet and keeps them dry
• Breathable mesh lining treated with Aegis® Antimicrobial solution maintains foot comfort
• Ortholite® Anatomical Footbed

MIDSOLE/OUTSOLE

• Molded nylon arch shank
• Compression molded EVA footframe provides cushioning
• Merrell® air cushion in the heel absorbs shock and adds stability
• 5mm Sole lug depth
• Vibram® Multi-Sport Sole/TC5+ Rubber
• UK Men’s Sizes: 7-13 full sizes only
• EUROPE Men’s Sizes: 40-49
• Weight: 15.5oz (439g)

A closer look

Nice and grippy

The Moab Mid is stylish and well put together. The Dura leather and mesh upper is extremely breathable and keeps your feet from sweating.

I ordered a size 8 (my usual size) and found that they fit perfectly straight out of the box. They’re extremely comfortable and lightweight. I haven’t walked more than 10 miles at a time in them yet, but I have absolutely no doubt that I could walk all day in them without problems. And this is without any kind of ‘bedding in’.

I wore them for a day in the peak and spent some time scrambling over damp gritstone. They performed rather well considering they’re not really designed for climbing.

It was on my regular dog walking route that I stumbled across a test for the waterproofing. I happened to cross a field with very wet grass (about 3” long) wearing a pair of Converse All Stars trainers (I know, not the brightest move). In less than a minute my feet were squelching, completely wet through. I headed home and changed into the Moab Mid Boots for a second try. This time my feet remained perfectly dry, and I spent a good 15 minutes dragging them around, trying to get some water through. Pretty good considering the how breathable they are!

A good looking set of boots

Summary

These are not a technical climbing boot. They’re not B rated and won’t take a crampon. What they are is an excellent, lightweight hiking boot. They’re a perfect approach shoe, and I’ll certainly be wearing mine for summer mountain days, for; approach, scrambling and descending.

The Moab Mid Gore-Tex® Boots are available in 4 different colours:

• Dark Earth
• Walnut
• Beluga (featured in this review)
• Black

They’re available for both men and women.

If you fancy a pair, they cost £110 and you can buy them direct from Merrell.com.

Merrell Moab Mid Gore-Tex® Boots is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing cracks – finger and hand jamming techniques
2. Which boots are best for mixed winter climbing in the UK?
3. Climbing Harness Guide: Evolution, Features and Choosing the Right Harness

Rob Lonsdale clearly enjoying the Dinas Hoody

I was browsing the web a few weeks ago and came across a brand that caught my eye. StoneMonkey are a clothing and accessory brand aimed squarely at the adventure market.

I hadn’t really noticed StoneMonkey before so I foolishly assumed they were new. Not so, the brand has actually been around since 1994, how did I miss them?! The thing that caught my eye, and something which StoneMonkey pride themselves on is their attention to detail and build quality. everything is tested to destruction by people that like to play out.

I’m now the proud owner of 2 pieces from the StoneMonkey collection: The Dinas Supersnug Hoody and The Adrenaline Jacket (review to follow)

What StoneMonkey say about the Dinas Supersnug Hoody

Quality pullover hood by Stone Monkey. 85% supersoft peached cotton giving the ultimate in luxury and comfort. Snug fit with large waffle lined hood, chunky drawstring, kangaroo pocket and raw seam detail giving a lived-in feel and never take off quality. Stone Monkey heritage year 94 vintage appliqué graphic on the front

Looking good for an clean send

A closer look

The peached cotton is super soft. It feels really cosy to wear, perfect for Autumn days, bouldering at chilly crags. The attention to detail is really impressive, with imaginative use of texture inside the hood. I really liked the rough edges on the seams and the lettering on the front.

It’s machine washable at 40º, which is pretty essential for something you might wear for climbing or bouldering.

We took the hoody up to the Stanage North, in the Peak for a spot of bouldering, on a November’s day. Admittedly it was pretty mild weather, but the hoody felt really cosy over a t-shirt and made for some stylish photographs. What more could you want from an autumn bouldering top?

Summary

Concentrate...

This is a super stylish hoody, which is equally at home on a crag day as it is on a trip to the pub with your mates.

It’s available in grey marl (pictured in this review), or Chalked Black. If the ’94’ graphic on the Dinas isn’t your thing, take a look at the other hoodies in the StoneMonkey range.

At £69.00, this isn’t the cheapest of hoodies, but the quality is excellent and you won’t find every man and his dog wearing the same one, which certainly can’t be said for some other brands.

If you fancy one, you can buy direct from StoneMonkey.

StoneMonkey Dinas SuperSnug Hoody is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing equipment review – Mammut Ultimate Hoody
2. Winter Bouldering League at Harrogate Climbing Centre (Round 3)
3. Winter Bouldering League at Harrogate Climbing Centre (Round 6)

Andy Kirkpatrick is a man who’s not afraid to look unflinchingly at himself in the mirror, and he’s not afraid to write about what he finds.

Covering Kirpatrick’s life from June 2001 to January 2005, the book takes in Sheffield, Wales and Hull alongside the more glamorous and predictable locations of the Alps, the USA and Patagonia. The testing climbs are described in minute and loving detail: the gear used, the bivvy spot, the food and drink remaining. Often, it seems, disaster strikes and so you chuckle along with Andy’s tales of leaving a crucial bag of karabiners and nuts in the back of a taxi on his way to Patagonia, or of dropping a haulbag and portaledge from the Dru. The dry humour and gift for self-deprecation that Kirkpatrick has long displayed are certainly present here, and he even directs a disparaging look at Ian Parnell on one occasion, as his frequent climbing partner has a series of mishaps with a range of expensive cameras.

Despite often undercutting the stories of his climbing with humour at his own expense, Kirkpatrick acknowledges that there is truth in Ian Parnell’s assessment of him as “the most ambitious climber he’d met”. Kirkpatrick has always been ready to look more deeply into his motivations, and Cold Wars provides the clearest insight yet into the mind of a world-class alpinist.  Reflecting on a trip to the Alps with Parnell in 2003, Kirkpatrick comments that “each route [is about] chasing that feeling of being on the edge between success and failure, life and death” and his drive to succeed, to prove himself to the mountaineering community and to justify the conflict he feels in leaving behind his family to go to the mountains, is evident throughout the book. In many ways, I found myself being reminded of the picture painted of Don Whillans by Jim Perrin in his biography The Villain; a strange mixture of insecurity covered by a shield of arrogance and a determination to prove himself, a chippy working-class Northerner uncomfortable when surrounded by ‘middle class public schoolboys’ on the ski slopes of the Alps

Throughout the book, Andy explores his own relationship with his (mostly) absent father, and his ability to summon up his childhood feelings casts an especially poignant light on his feelings about his own children when he finds himself in dangerous or unpleasantly hazardous positions. His self-imposed struggles are also compared to those endured by his brother Robin, one of the few non-climbers within the book’s pages, who served as a crew member on RAF Hercules planes. The final chapter of the book, in which Rob’s life seems to hang in the balance as Hercules is shot down over Iraq, is a moving testament to the enduring power of family ties, ties which Kirkpatrick had often resented when comparing his life to that of his peers.

Andy Kirkpatrick

In the preface, Kirkpatrick says that while Psychovertical answered the question “Why do you climb?”, Cold Wars asks the question “What is the price?”. Although the explicit question is about Kirkpatrick’s own choices and the impact on his family, throughout the book both he and the reader are left contemplating the choices of those climbers who pay the ultimate price. Scattered throughout the book are the names of climbers who died in earlier decades, and stories of those Kirkpatrick has known personally who have suffered injuries, accidents or not returned at all.  His final chapter suggests that Kirkpatrick has the will to try and resolve the conflicts he faces, to fulfil both family and climbing ambitions. A book that is moving, powerful and hugely entertaining, often within a single chapter, Cold Wars joins Psychovertical as one of the new classics of mountaineering literature.

If you would like a copy…

• Andy Kirkpatrick – Cold Wars from Andy’s web site
• Andy Kirkpatrick – Cold Wars from The Climbing Book Shop

Andy is touring the UK during November, giving a series of talks about Cold Wars. All the details can be found on the Speakers from the Edge website.

Cold Wars – Andy Kirkpatrick is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Andy Kirkpatrick’s talk at ShAFF review
2. Interview with Andy Kirkpatrick
3. Climbing book review: Classic Rock compiled by Ken Wilson

Mammut Obelisk DLX

Last month, having arranged a weekend of climbing in Snowdonia, I realised rather late in the day that I didn’t have any approach shoes (I had thrown my old ones away after trashing them in a rare spate of gardening).

Luckily whilst signing in for a climbing session at Rock City in Hull, I noticed that they had the Mammut Obelisk DLX on special offer: £59.96 (previously £79.94). On closer inspection they appeared to be just the ticket, a nice looking shoe with the promise of some technical ability over rough terrain. Sold!

What the manufacturer says

The best-seller from new Urban Climbing series is noted for its lightness, tailored fit and design. Derived from the Mammut® climbing skins is the asymmetric design, which shifts pressure onto the big toe; the almost allround protective rubber edge and Liquid Rubber as well as the Spider sole with the integrated Mammut® Spider Grip sole concept, which offers maximum adhesion, good foot roll behaviour and grip on more challenging terrain.

Design and build quality

As I mentioned earlier, the Obelisk is a very good looking shoe. They’re available in black and red, a kind of charcoal grey and flouro green, and the ladies version is grey and baby blue. I opted for the funky looking charcoal grey and flouro green.

Like all Mammut’s stuff the construction is top drawer. Neat stitching, reinforcement where it’s needed, gear loops for when you want to change into your climbing shoes. The sole profile looks really thin from the outside, but there’s plenty of shock absorption material inside. At the tip, it features something labelled as the ‘climbing zone’. On mine, this is finished in the flouro yellow and has an edge to it, could it be used for edging on small chips?

Performance

Me, high up on Tryfan's North Ridge in the Mammut Obelisk DLX

Like many trips to Snowdonia, mine was punctuated with regular and persistent showers. We opted to go for easy climbs and scrambles, which we knew we would be able to complete rain or shine. I used the Obelisk all weekend in a variety of conditions, as an approach shoe . As such they were pretty well behaved, they were comfortable and worked well, scrambling over broken rock.

Coming back down on Saturday and Sunday, I have to admit I ended up on my backside on several occasions on the wet rocks of the steep mountain descents of Tryfan. This might have happened anyway, but I’m not totally convinced that these shoes work that well on wet rock.

On the Sunday we opted to scramble Tryfan’s north ridge. There’s nothing overly technical on this climb so I left my rock shoes in the car. We picked the hardest lines we could find, even managing to find a nice exposed ramp & corner to climb, behind the cannon shaped rock 3/4 of the way up. On reasonable sized footholds (up to an inch in depth), the Obelisks performed really well. Anything much less than this and there just isn’t the required stiffness, despite the promising looking edge of the aforementioned ‘climbing zone’.

Summary

The Mammut Obelisk DLX is a great looking, comfortable approach shoe which can be used on easy climbs and scrambles too. Just don’t expect too much of it when it turns wet or like me you will end up with a sore bum!

I would say they’re perfect as a summer approach shoe.

If you fancy a pair, We Love Mountains still have some in stock: Mammut Obelisk DLX

Mammut Obelisk DLX Approach Shoe Review is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing equipment review – Mammut Ultimate Hoody
2. Climbing equipment review – Mammut Spark 9.5
3. Climbing equipment review: Mammut “Passion” climbing rope

What the manufacturer says

Our most breathable synthetic base-layer keeps your dry and comfortable

Made for early season singletrack and long, sweeping Yosemite leads, Capilene® 2 Lightweight’s open knit invites airflow and provides excellent wicking, exceptional breathability and fast dry times. When worn beneath layers, it’s also insulative enough for chilly days. The rib-knit collar is pliable and soft, raglan sleeves have offset seams that won’t chafe beneath pack straps, and side seams roll forward for smooth layering. Made of 4-oz 100% polyester (54% recycled) with Gladiodor® odor control for the garment.

Tech info

Patagonia’s Capilene® garments are made from a recycled and recyclable polyester which wicks moisture away from the body, keeping you nice and dry. Whether you’re using the garment as a base-layer or on its own, keeping dry will prevent you from becoming cold when you stop moving.

Patagonia have also treated the the fabric with something they call Gladiodor®, which they claim reduces unwanted smells from sweating.

First impressions

Me testing the wicking properties of the Patagonia Capiline t-shirt, on a balmy summer's eve at Almscliff

My first impression on taking the t-shirt out of the bag is that it looks much better in the flesh than it does in pictures on the web, the dark green part is a kind of 2-tone fabric. It looks really well constructed and feels really light. Patagonia have opted to print the washing instructions directly onto the material rather than stitching a tag in. This means you don’t have any irritating tag rubbing on your neck, and I’m sure it is a more environmentally sound way of producing the garment, but I can’t read it at all so they might as well have left them off altogether. The logo is a bit strange too, it’s printed in a pale grey…. on a green t-shirt, making it difficult to see. Looking at more pictures of the t-shirt on the web it looks like this has been addressed, as the logo appears to be dark green – much better.

In use

This t-shirt has immediately become my favourite t-shirt to climb in. It feels really light and stretchy, providing great freedom of movement. It keeps me really cool and I think it looks great in action pictures.

I’ve been pretty much wearing the t-shirt to death over the past 3 weeks and it is starting to show signs of bobbling. That said, I couldn’t read the washing instructions so I’ve been washing it at 40º. Looking at Patagonia’s web site now, I can see I should have been washing it cold – oops! Like all the best outdoor activity garments, it’s already almost dry when you pull it from the washing machine, 20 minutes on the line and it’s ready to wear. No ironing required!

I’m not really a stinky person (or at least I don’t think so), so I can’t tell you if the Gladiodor® thing works. However, I’ve met quite a few, let’s say ‘distinctive smelling’ climbers over the years, so if it does work, well done Patagonia!

The Capilene® 2 T-shirt is available in:

• Black
• Channel Blue – Continental Blue
• Ultramarine
• Red clover – lychee
• White
• They don’t appear to have Forest Glen – Watercress (the one pictured, that I have. Though I noticed that it is available in the US section of the Patagonia store)

Where to buy

You can buy the Capilene® 2 from Patagonia.com. From late September you’ll also be able to buy from the new Patagonia Store, opening in Covent Garden, London (date TBC).

Patagonia Capilene® Lightweight 2 T-Shirt Review is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. And our first t-shirt winner is…
2. Patagonia set to open a new flagship store in London this summer
3. Rock Climbing UK T-shirt – the ultimate crag fashion statement

The viewer is treated to slick editing and for the most part high quality footage. The climbing is accompanied and complemented by a fantastic soundtrack of electro and contemporary hip-hop beats from artists such as Pyramid, Glitch Mob, & Gramatic to name three.

Paul gives a running commentary throughout the film of the problems he tries  (…and ultimately succeeds on) highlighting the difficulties and intricacies of the problem. Some may find it depressing to find out how hard the problems actually are, especially compared to the relative ease with which P-Rob dispatches them…pay particular attention to the close-up of his fingers when he successfully sends Angama, the word grim doesn’t even come close to describing that one.

At 20 minutes long this film is the perfect length to watch when you want to get psyched in your coffee break at work, ready for an evening session and is also a good one if you have a particularly short attention span.

The final bonus about the film is the price. Available from HDclimbingvideos.com the download is priced at $6.99 which works out at around £4.29. BARGAIN.

Awesome bouldering, inspiring soundtrack, superb commentary and a whole load of psyche, ALL for under a fiver?! What more can I say?
Do what I did…download it. Watch it. Watch it again … Go bouldering. Then watch it some more!

The Schengen Files – Film Review is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Best of ShAFF – previews: 6th Dec 2010 and 7th feb 2011
2. Llanberis Mountain Film Festival 2011 – 18th – 20th March 2011
3. Climbing DVD review – Psyche 2 by Posing Productions

The new GriGri2 from Petzl

When I first heard in July 2010 that Petzl were to release an updated version of the GriGri my thoughts followed one particular chain, and that was something along the lines of …

“Petzl must think they’ve got something pretty special going on if they are updating the GriGri”

The GriGri has become one of the ‘must-have’ pieces of kit for sport climbers the world over. Many have tried to replicate its success with similar products, the likes of the Elderid Eddy and the Trango Cinch to name just two. Yet none have come close to the volume of sales that Petzl have achieved with the GriGri. Some say that this is down to a hefty marketing budget and the backing of the world’s best climbers, and I’d be lying if I said that I didn’t agree a little bit. But you could also argue that the reason for its popularity is the fact that it is simply viewed by the vast majority as the best product.

In January of this year I managed to get my hands on one of the few pre-sale units of the GriGri2 in the UK. Over the past 6 months I have put it to good use, testing both in and outdoors, in the UK and other European countries. So the question is, does the GriGri2 measure up to its bigger, older sibling?

Shape, Size, Weight

The new GriGri2 on the right, compared to the original

The first noticeable change to the original design is that the GriGri2 is considerably smaller than its older brother. Petzl have reduced the size of the device by 25% and in turn have reduced the weight by 20% too.

Smaller and lighter is good news for any climber. It means less weight to carry to the crag, less weight on your harness and less space taken up in your rucksack.

Aside from the obvious advantages, the new size and shape of the device also means that it fits much more neatly into the palm of your hand, making operations like paying out and taking in rope much easier. By comparison the old design is much larger and has a less ergonomic feel.

Handle

Using the GriGri2

Thread your rope, attach the device to your harness and belay your partner to the top. When it’s time to lower them down you’ll notice the next significant alteration; the handle. Shorter, thinner and set at a new angle, the new design makes for a much more controlled (and therefore a safer) descent. On the original GriGri the lever angle and shape made it very easy to pull the handle all the way back… and thus lower the climber to the ground VERY quickly, giving the climber a sensation of falling rather than being lowered.

The new angle and length of the handle also means that unless you have hands like pixie it’s very difficult to use more than two or three fingers to lower the climber safely to the ground.

Rope Diameters

Probably one of the biggest motivators for Petzl to develop the GriGri2 is the new range of rope diameters that can be used safely with the device. The GriGri2 can be used safely on ropes with a diameter between 8.9 – 11 mm and works best with ropes with a diameter between 9.4 mm – 10.3 mm. This is a huge improvement on the original design, especially considering that a lot of ropes used in sport climbing are now between 9.2mm – 9.7mm with climbers looking for the lightest ropes, to shed every spare gram with the hope of grabbing their next project send.

It is also considerably less ‘snatchy’ on ropes when paying out slack for the climber on ‘the sharp end’. It runs smoothest if you belay with a little slack in the system and feed the rope through the device rather than pulling it through, this makes for a much more comfortable experience for both climber and belayer. No more pulling the leader from the climb as you frantically pull on the rope, locking the device up.

Price

Another great thing about the GriGri2 is that it is competitively priced; you can pick one up from pretty much any climbing equipment shop, either online or in-store for around £60. That’s over £30 cheaper than the RRP of the Edelrid Eddy and about the same price as the Trango Cinch.

Product Recall

In June of this year Petzl initiated a recall on all GriGri2 devices with a serial number between 10326 and 11136. This was due to a mechanical fault with the new handle design on these particular units which caused the handle to remain open if an excessive force was applied. If you have a unit with a serial number between 10326 and 11136 then please contact Lyon Equipment Limited (UK distributor) for a replacement. Any GriGri2 with a serial number beyond 11137 has had the handle strengthened and is completely safe for use.

Both Petzl and Lyon Equipment Ltd were extremely transparent with this recall and efficiently. Faulty units have typically been replaced within 5 working days.

Overall Verdict

Comparing the GriGri2 to the original, the GriGri2 is on the right

Whether you are a plastic pulling wall goer or a self-confessed rock jock, if sport climbing is your thing then your world will be a better place with a GriGri2 in it. It’s a great device for all you ‘tradders’ and ‘aiders’ out there too, making descending down a single rope easy (very useful if you’re cleaning a route, abseiling into a crag on a fixed line, or ascending back up one). I’ve even found mine really effective on one of my many route setting days down at Kendal Wall (I usually use the amazing Petzl Stop).

The new design is a massive improvement on the old, in terms of safety, aesthetics and use, and the price represents good value for money. At the beginning of this review I asked if the GriGri2 was going to carry on the excellent reputation of its predecessor as ‘the best’… in my opinion, the answer is a resounding YES!

Check out the full instructions on how to use the GriGri2 properly, over at Petzl’s web site

The New Petzl GriGri2 – Full Review is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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The NUT

If like me you’re an iPhone user, you’ve probably thought about climbing with your iPhone but been too worried that you’ll end up scratching it, denting or worse, completely smashing it to pieces. My solution has often been to simply leave it in the car, or on multi-pitch climbs, wrap it up and stuff it right into the centre of my pack. This is a shame really because the iPhone has a great camera, and it would be nice to be able to stuff it your pocket, ready for those Kodak moments. Or if climbing to music is your thing, plugging in the headphones and cranking to the sounds of Chris de Burgh (ahem, maybe not).

So what we’re looking for is a kind of hard shell which will house the iPhone while allowing us to use it for calls, music, photo’s etc… Cue The NUT from Okoqu.

The NUT is a hard, clear case, which Okoqu claim to protect your iPhone 3G / 3GS from crushing, scuffing, scratching, or cracking. All this, while allowing you to plug in your headphones, use the touch screen and take pictures. It’s also weatherproof (that’s weatherproof, not waterproof – it’ll keep the rain off but don’t go swimming with it).

The first thing you notice about the NUT is that while it’s big and chunky, it looks great! It’s made from a clear, high impact polycarbonate, with a nice grippy elastomer running around the edges at the back. The elastomer part is available in a funky range of colours (very Apple – Steve Jobs would be proud).

I have an iPhone 4, so rather disappointingly my device didn’t really fit into my demo NUT properly, however I did manage to force it in and close it up so I could test the touch screen. It works perfectly.

I think the NUT is a bit of a design classic. It doesn’t try to be really slimline, it embraces its chunkiness and complements the lines of the phone perfectly. The superb design doesn’t end at the product either. As a former graphic designer, I love the branding, and the packaging is spot on. The instructions come in a kind of Rizzla style cigarette paper pack. What’s more, it’s designed and manufactured here in the UK.

The NUT is a great piece of kit for anyone that’s into climbing, snowboarding, mountain biking or similar (well me really). Any sport where your kit can get bashed about and face some harsh weather, but where your iPhone can come in handy from both a fun (pictures and music) perspective, but also, more seriously should you come a cropper and need to call for help.

If you’re rocking an iPhone 3G or 3GS you can buy a NUT from Okoqu’s online store. I’m afraid at the moment it’s a bit Henry Ford though. It seems you can have any colour as long as it’s black. I’m sure there will be some more colours in stock soon.

This isn’t the cheapest iPhone case at £34.99, but it looks like it’ll make an excellent job of protecting your iPhone. Apple are currently selling the 3GS for £428, so it’s certainly something you wouldn’t want to break!

I’m gutted that the NUT is only available for the iPhone 3G / 3GS at the moment. Please send me the iPhone 4 version when you’ve finished it Okoqu!

Take Your iPhone Climbing Without the Fear of Wrecking it – The NUT is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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