Rock Climbing UK » Climbing Harness

Climbing Harness Guide: Evolution, Features and Choosing the Right Harness

Jeremy Stevens — Thu, 27 Oct 2011 09:24:18 +0000

In Joe Simpson’s autobiography This Game of Ghosts he gives a tense account of an accident on the Dru in the early 1980s. A bivi ledge collapsed, leaving Simpson and his climbing partner dangling from a dodgy peg and staring at a two thousand foot drop. They spent twelve hours hanging there.

The x350a from Arc’teryx – definitely a whole lot comfier than a Whillans harness!

“It was not long before we were suffering agonising cramps from where our sit harnesses cut deeply into our thighs and waists”.

They were rescued by helicopter and Simpson went on to survive even greater peril in the Andes, but the Dru incident is an extreme example of how harnesses have to offer comfort as well as safety.

Climbers must hope for the best but prepare for the worst, so regardless of whether you expect to spend 12 hours or 12 minutes hanging in your harness, buying the right one is crucial. Thankfully today’s models are very comfortable by comparison to the torture devices of yesteryear. It’s a far cry from a 1970s Whillans to a 2011 X-350a and the new Arc’teryx one won’t leave you crying! Brands have improved every aspect of features, fit and fabrication.

Common Features

Waist Belt and Leg Loops

The challenge when constructing Waist and Leg Loops is to build in comfort as well as safety. Ten years ago this simply meant ‘more padding’. Central straps of nylon webbing would provide the structure, sandwiched by foam padding. Over time the foam would deform around the webbing, leaving a narrow band that could bite into your body under load. Nowadays the aim is to spread the load so that the waist belt and leg loops take weight evenly across their whole internal surface area.

Arc’teryx Warp Strength Technology – This was a ‘game changer’ that revolutionised harness manufacture. Arc’teryx have removed the ‘weft’ (vertical) fibres from their structural webbing to leave just the ‘warp’ (lengthways) segments. These are positioned to create the shape of the harness before being laminated together with soft but tough fabric. So there’s no central band to cut in and no need for extra padding. Arc’teryx harnesses are light, comfy, tough and technical. The classic is the X-350a.

Petzl Frame Construction – Petzl run high strength structural tape around the outer edges of the waist and leg loops with breathable mesh and EVA foams in between. It’s a proven method that spreads the load effectively. Their best-selling Corax model uses this bias tape along with a breathable mesh lining and a double buckle system, making a very comfy and adjustable all rounder.

The lightweight Edelrid Creed harness

Black Diamond SoftEdge Construction – An internally-seamed top edge softens load distribution. The top edge won’t dig in, while weight is transferred down to internal webbing and a tough lower edge binding. It all adds up to lighter harness that gives better freedom of movement. It’s used on their 4 season harnesses like the Lotus.

Edelrid Tri-Laminate Construction – Outer material, load-bearing fabric and inner material are all heat treated and laminated together. Weight is transferred evenly across the whole surface area and makes bulky padding unnecessary. This high-tech construction makes the harness light and sleek as well as comfortable. As found in the Creed.

Buckles

Most modern harnesses now use auto locking buckles. The alternative is a traditional ‘double back’ buckle, where it is essential to make sure you pass the webbing back through the buckle to lock off. Both work well, just make sure you know which type you’re buying! Also bear in mind that some harnesses will eschew leg buckles in favour of one size loops, often with an elastic cross-section to create a snug fit. This saves weight and for many people adjustable legs are an unnecessary extra.

Belay loop

When belaying a climbing partner you will attach your karabiner and belay plate to this high strength loop. The vertical orientation allows your belay plate to orient in the right direction for easy belaying. Some models will have a safety marker encapsulated in the belay loop. If you begin to see this red marker appearing it means your harness is worn out and should be replaced.

Tie in loops

When you attach a rope to your harness using the usual rethreaded figure of 8 or bowline knots, you will pass the rope end through the lower and upper tie in holes. In this way both waist band and leg loops are independently attached to the rope – it’s safer and spreads the load more effectively than just tying in through the belay loop.

Gear loops

Plastic or webbing loops placed at intervals around the waist band, designed for racking protection. A sport climbing harness may prioritise light weight by including only two gear loops for racking a set of quickdraws. By contrast trad climbing harnesses will have a minimum of four gear loops to provide more space for a big rack. Some will hold as little as 5kg, which means you should never attach to a belay using a gear loop.

Ice clipper slots

Some specialist harnesses include slots designed to help rack ice screws. For instance the new Arc’teryx I∙340a due in Spring 12 is will include 14 ice clipper slots for fully customisable racking.

Haul loop

At the back of your harness there is often a small attachment point that can be used for trailing a rope behind you as you climb, without getting in the way by hanging from the front of your harness. Haul loops are usually non-structural so should not be used as a principle attachment point to the rock. They are however ideal for hanging your chalk bag off…

Fitting tips

Fitting a harness is much like fitting a pair of rock boots. It is a subjective experience and you should try a few different models and brands to get a good idea of what works for you.

Think what you’ll be wearing

If you’re a summer sport climber and gym climber, you will wear a T shirt 90% of the time. Buy your harness accordingly. However, if you’re principally an alpinist and Scottish winter climber, you will need to accommodate multiple layers of fleece and GORE-TEX. Again, wear a similar number of layers when you actually fit the harness, so you know for sure that it will work. Of course, most climbers will do a bit of everything so try and find a harness with sufficient adjustment to work over any number of layers.

Always hang in store

There’s no substitute for hanging time. Many stores will have a suspension point where you can test each harness. Check that the waist belt is supportive but doesn’t dig in. Try to minimise any gaps between you and the harness; there should be roughly a finger’s width difference. They don’t need to be tight, but should be comfortably snug. Adjust the rear webbing risers if necessary; it can make a real difference to how comfortable the leg loops feel.

Men’s v Women’s

It’s not just a question of pink versus blue! Women’s harnesses are shaped differently. The waist-leg loop ratio will be smaller and there will be a longer rise between the waist and leg loops. Slender women may find that some men’s harnesses feel too bulky and stiff, perhaps digging in at the ribs. Harnesses designed for women shouldn’t cause this problem.

Types of Harness:

Winter

The Black Diamond Aspect

When winter climbing you’ll encounter cold, damp conditions. Normal open cell foam will absorb water and then freeze, creating a solid, cold, unmanageable ring. Harnesses designed for winter will use a closed cell foam that doesn’t absorb water. These foams create a more substantial-feeling, less breathable product and make the harness less suitable for use in hot summer weather. However, they are ideal for the particular rigours of winter climbing. Specialist winter harnesses are also likely to include a healthy number of large gear loops and ice clipper slots, plus adjustable leg loops to accommodate multiple layers.

Excellent example: The Black Diamond Aspect.

Trad/All round

A number of harnesses can be categorised as ‘All Rounders’. They tread the mid-ground between Winter harness completeness and Sport harness minimalism. You’ll get good support and high quality breathable foams. Usually there are four gear loops and perhaps a couple of ice clipper slots. They often have adjustable leg loops. Buy one of these and it will perform admirably in any climbing arena, from Ben Nevis to Stanage, Tryfan to Portland.

Excellent example: Arc’teryx R-320a

Sport

Minimalism is the name of the game. Sport climbing harnesses use very lightweight and super-breathable fabrics. They often have just two gear loops. The principle is that the less weight in and on your harness, the harder you can climb. Super lightweight harnesses are also an attractive proposition for alpinists and you will see experienced mountaineers wearing the Petzl Hirundos.

Excellent Example: Petzl Hirundos

Alpine

The Black Diamong Couloir

Alpine ‘bod’ style harnesses are the simplest available. Their basic construction means they cope superbly with poor weather. The clip buckle system allows you to put it on without stepping into the leg loops. So no need to take off your crampons first! Although they can be uncomfortable worn over a cotton T and shorts, bear in mind that you will usually be wearing this kind of harness over a full set of mountaineering clothing which acts as padding. For proper alpine climbing a more substantial and fully featured harness will work best. However, for easier mountaineering, glacier crossing and ski touring duties the Alpine harness is hard to beat for lightweight practicality.

Excellent Example: Black Diamond Couloir

Care and Inspection

Keep your harness somewhere cool and dry, out of direct sunlight. Most manufacturers provide a guide to lifespans based on different levels of use and storage. This is usually around 10 years if used occasionally and well stored. Regular use and heavy falls can reduce lifespan much more quickly so it’s worth giving your harness a regular visual inspection to check for signs of wear. And if you take a very big lob, do consider retiring your harness.

Climbing Harness Guide: Evolution, Features and Choosing the Right Harness is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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5 Essential Pieces of Kit for the Beginner Climber

Kieran White — Wed, 17 Aug 2011 19:13:42 +0000

So, you’ve tried some climbing. You’ve been to the climbing wall a few times, your dreams are increasingly full of visions of you performing complicated and strangely beautiful climbing moves, and you can’t walk past a wall without picking out potential routes for traversing. Or maybe you’ve had your first taste of outdoor climbing; a classic v diff on the grit at Stanage, or maybe a multi-pitch sea climb in Pembrokeshire, a place where the air thrums with the call of gulls and the pounding of the sea at the cliffs base.

Whatever your introduction to climbing has been – you now know that you are addicted to this climbing lark, and you’re going to want to do some more.
Here’s my guide to the top 5 bits of kit that any beginner climber will soon need to invest in, if they know they’ve been bitten by the climbing bug.

1. Rock Shoes

These are pretty much the number one priority, and depending on what the primary type of climbing you might be doing there are a huge range of choices.
Comfort is of course important, but your rock shoes need to be as tight as you can bear from a performance perspective. However, if you’re a newbie to the sport, or less obsessed with climbing ‘hard’, then you can afford to chill out and think of the comfort of your tootsies!

The Boreal Joker is a great all round shoe, and is a traditional choice for longer mountain routes and multi pitch climbs because they are super comfortable with split leather uppers and a padded mesh tongue.

Boreal Joker

If you’re drawn to bouldering and shorter sessions then The Five ten Rogue is just the ticket. With a more precise fit than the joker, the Velcro means it’s easy to take on and off, and it has a super sticky stealth rubber sole.

Five Ten Rogue

2. Harness

Again, comfort is a big consideration here. I’ve included 2 harnesses that both have adjustable and/or releasable leg loops, so they’ll make the transition from indoor or sport climbing to seconding multi-pitch climbs or mountain routes without too much of a problem.

The Black Diamond Bod is a basic entry level harness, and the price reflects this. Don’t let that put you off though, it is a seasoned and popular choice for beginners and is a great all rounder with a surprisingly comfortable waist-belt.

Black Diamond Bod

The Petzl Corax is all new for 2011, with a double buckle waist belt. The ziplock buckles make for, easy and quick adjustment with no faff! It’s more padded than the bod, with increased levels of adjustability. This is the Rolls Royce of harnesses for the beginner climber and comes highly recommended. Women climbers might like to consider the all purpose Petzl Luna, similar in features to the Corax but with a woman specific fit.

Petzl Corax

3. Belay Device

This is undeniably a very important piece of kit, if you’re going to do any climbing beyond bouldering you’ll need one of these.

I’d recommend a tubular belay device as they’re compact and easy to use.
The Black Diamond ATC is great for sports climbing and indoor use. It’s light, with a smooth action, and is easy to learn to belay with.

Black Diamond ATC

The Petzl Reverso 3 is the new version of the classic Reverso, perfect for those looking to start their climbing career in the outdoors with trad and multi-pitch routes, as the wide slots allow use of a range of rope diameters. Using it in Reverso mode with its self-braking system makes for simple and ultra-safe belaying of a second when climbing outdoors.

Petzl Reverso

4. Chalk bag

The type of chalk you use will depend on your climbing environment, as will your choice of chalk bag.

Good for boulderers is this bouldering chalk bag from Moon Climbing. This works like a dry bag and you can stick a whole load of chalk in here to last you the day. You can attach your shoes, and even stick your sandwiches in the mesh pocket on the front!

Moon Bouldering Chalk Bag

A really popular choice in the shops at the moment is the Black Diamond chalk bag which comes in 3 sizes. This is a great little bag, with a toothbrush holder (handy for brushing down greasy holds!), and it comes with a waist cord. We have this in a load of different colours and designs, so you can accessorise with your harness and helmet etc . After all, colour coordination of kit is an absolute must at the crag!

Black Diamond Chalk Bag

5. Helmet

Last but not least we have the climbing helmet. I’d never climb outdoors without one, and many climbing walls make it their policy for all beginner climbers and those taking part in lessons to wear one.

My first choice highlights the range of women specific climbing kit on the market. The Elia helmet for women from Petzl is designed specifically for women and has a headband that adjusts easily to a range of head sizes, oh – and if you like to wear your hair in a ponytail the back of the cradle is slightly raised so you can go ahead and do so!

Petzl Elia

The Black Diamond half dome is very reasonably priced and is our biggest seller for climbing newbies. It has a good universal fit for a range of head sizes, it’s simple to fit and you can adjust the cradle fit using just one hand.

Black Diamond Half Dome

That’s it for my recommendations, do you have any other kit to add, or suggestions to make? Please share them in the comments, we’d be interested in your feedback.

Written by Kieran White from Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports

Kieran is standing in for our latest regular contributor, Jeremy Stevens this month as Jeremy is off climbing!

5 Essential Pieces of Kit for the Beginner Climber is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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Climbing equipment review: Arcteryx R320 climbing harness

Becky Mincher — Sat, 11 Sep 2010 07:49:41 +0000

Arcteryx spent 3 years researching and developing the technology used on their harnesses and looking closely at the Arcteryx R320, it shows. Their harnesses don’t look like any other out there! Traditionally, harnesses have always used padding and cushioning to make them feel more comfortable, which has resulted in some of them feeling a little bulky, Arcteryx have used a different approach altogether!

Arcteryx use their Warp Strength Technology (WST) to distribute the load evenly across the entire structure, spreading the load from edge to edge rather than it all being in the centre. The result is a lighter, less bulky and more comfortable climbing harness. The WST also makes this harness very lightweight at approximately 32kg and it fold down to make packing very easy. I originally expressed interest in stocking the R320 because Arcteryx claimed it was a ‘jack of all trades, able to switch between trad and sport climbing’. The lightness of the R320 makes it ideal for sport climbing, but the 4 gear loops and haul loops will accommodate your rack on trad and multi-pitch climbing.

Arcteryx seem to have thought of everything when designing this harness. The 4 gear loops are reversible, the waist has a self locking buckle and it even has a ‘wear safety marker’ on the tie in point! It is an expensive harness at £89.95, but if you’re serious about climbing, it would make a sound investment.

If you fancy one of these fabulous harnesses:

Climbing equipment review: Arcteryx R320 climbing harness is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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Climbing equipment review: Petzl Corax harness

Gareth Hanson — Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:36:43 +0000

I have been using my Petzl Corax climbing harness since early last year. It has been a reliable and trustworthy piece of kit. I climb at least once per week, and the harness looks pretty much as good as new.

It has 4 gear loops to hold plenty of gear.

The buckles adjust on both sides and keep the harness tight, without working loose (even when carrying a lot of gear)

The one piece of advice I would give you if you’re thinking of buying one is to check the size. I bought a size 2, ad it’s always been just that little bit too big. I have a 32″ waist.

Climbing equipment review: Petzl Corax harness is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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