Climbing Wall Essentials is a skills and techniques guide written by experts for climbers of all abilities. I’ll try to get hold of a review copy and give you some more information. Though if it’s like other BMC training videos it should be top drawer!

As far as I can see, it hasn’t appeared in the BMC Online shop yet, but I’ll keep an eye out and let you know when it does.

New Climbing Walls Essentials DVD from The BMC is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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I spotted Bamboo Chicken Productions a few weeks ago on Vimeo. I loved the style of their films and decided to send them a message asking if I could feature one of them on this site. Not only did they kindly agree, but they also sent me a copy of their full length DVD; Welsh Connections, a Film by Dave Brown.

I’m a huge fan of climbing in Wales. Snowdonia is probably my favourite climbing venue so it was huge thrill for me to watch a full length DVD featuring some fantastic Welsh routes.

The first thing I’ll say about the film is that you get a lot for your money. This DVD is packed! The second thing is that it looks beautiful. The camera work is stunning and makes a great job of showcasing the jaw dropping scenery and the atmosphere of the climbing.

The action starts at Lower Pen Trywn, with Pete Robins tackling Liquid Ambar, a sport climb which when it was first climbed by Jerry Moffatt in 1990 was deemed Britain’s hardest route. It had since only seen 2 further ascents by Ben Moon and Rich Simpson. Pete immediately struck me as being one the most ripped climbers I’ve ever seen! It’s hugely entertaining watching him fight this monster of a climb.

Next we head over to Scimitar Ridge for some trad. A first ascent attempt by Johhny Dawes. This film is super dramatic and really captures the utter desperation I’m sure every climber has felt at some point.

After some quality swearing from Johhny it’s over to Pembroke for some super hard trad with Tim Emmett. Prepare for some bum clenching moments, on super steep climbing with big fall potential. Tim’s composure is incredible! Watch out for a mega fall, after which Tim says to his belayer “That was like going base jumping mate!”.

The next section features Nick Bullock making a first trad ascent on some really suspect, loose rock. He names the climb, No Country for Old Men.

Next it’s up to Upper Pen Trwyn, Pill Box Wall for some bouldering with Chris Doyle. Chris has spent a huge amount of time at this wall and has put together a huge and painful looking traverse.

There’s more bouldering at Pen Trwyn at Parisella’s Cave. This looks like a great wet weather venue for the really strong and committed boulderer.

After this we’re over to some Llanberis Slate to watch Pete Whittaker take on a hard sport route, featuring belay and some strong encouragement from his mum. This is a real lesson in bridging technique!

Next it’s Tanygrisiau for a first ascent of what looks like a ridiculously hard boulder problem called New Noise, V12, climbed by Chris Davies.

Then it’s back to Pembroke for some super atmospheric deep water soloing with Gav Symonds and Tim Emmett on San Simeon.

After this it’s off to Gogarth for some desperate trad climbing with Nick Bullock and James McHaffie on-sighting Yellow shark, a really atmospheric and scary looking climb.

Feature presentation ‘To The Rainbow’

‘To the Rainbow’ features, Paul Pritchard making a return to climbing after a 13 year break following a head injury which left him with hemiplegia.

Paul joins his old climbing partner, Johhny Dawes on Rainbow Slab. Paul’s ascent is truly inspiring. He manages with one hand what many people would struggle to accomplish with the use of both hands.

As if all these films were not enough, the DVD includes extras too!

A great buy. Check it out!

Climbing DVD Review – Welsh Connections from Bamboo Chicken Productions is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing DVD review: Psyche by Posing Productions
2. Climbing DVD review – Psyche 2 by Posing Productions
3. Climbing DVD review – Grit Flick, from Posing Productions

Part 2 deals with the different disciplines of sport and trad climbing, and seeks to provide you with strategies for both on-sight and red pointing.

This is the content of Part 2:

Falling

This section of the film deals with a subject that is an issue for many climbers – falling! Neil demonstrates a graded exposure approach, gradually taking bigger and bigger falls. This has since been named as the clip-drop technique. I completely buy into this approach, but in order to be comfortable with falling, you have to fall often. Neil suggests that you fall every time you visit the wall.

Clipping

This part provides tactics on finding best position to clip (ideally balanced and with a straight arm). And the correct way to clip forehand (gate facing away) and backhand, gate facing you.

On-sighting (sport)

There’s some really cool stuff here, from advanced warm up tactics to pre visualising the route and pace. When to remain cool and when to turn on the aggression.

The thing I love about this film is the case studies. It’s OK providing theoretical advice, but it really comes together when it’s provided in the context of an actual climb. This section features case studies, one one of them featuring Steve McClure climbing an 8a at Malham Cove.

Red-pointing (sport)

This part is all about working projects (climbs that are above your insight limit). Neil provides top tactics to on how to do it for best results.

There’s a really nice case study featuring Adam Wainwright climbing ‘Statement of Youth’ 8a, and Steve McClure climbing ‘Rainshadow’, Malham Cove 9a (one of hardest sport climbs in the world) – The latter provides an insight into Steve’s thoughts and tactics when tackling routes of this level.

Trad on-sighting

Here we start at ‘London Wall’ E5 at Millstone, with Neil first showing how not to do it, then how it should be done. The differences certainly gave me something to think about. In fact my whole approach to trad climbing on harder routes will be different this summer, after watching this film.

Neil moves onto the concept of mixing it up when climbing for multiple days in a row. He moves from steep to slabs and we join him and his mate Charlie on ‘Bell Dance’ E5 at Llanberis, Nt Wales. Charlie takes a massive lob but there’s more top advice.

Neil then climbs Right Wall E4 Llanberis. This is great, he provides a complete strategy for tackling this type of climb (without giving away the beta), and rather than providing a commentary after the even, in this case he chooses to commentate while actually on the climb. This provides a superb insight to his thought processes.

Head-pointing

This last section deals with the practice of head-pointing: Climbing really hard and poorly protected trad routes on a top rope before attempting to climb them as a lead.

Neil repeats his route ‘Equilibrium’ E10. I challenge anybody to watch this part of the film without their heart in their mouth! The route features 8 hard moves from the last (and only) piece of gear up rounded arete, with definite ground fall he he fell on any of the last 3 moves. Neil struggles like hell for ages on a top rope. He manages to make the crux move once then decides to go for it – terrifying! I would have wanted to make the move at least 3 times, just to be sure.

This part 2 film of Neil Gresham’s Masterclass is an absolute must for anyone wanting to take their climbing to the next level. Superb!

Improve your climbing – Masterclass with Neil Gresham (part 2) is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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1. Improve your climbing – Masterclass with Neil Gresham (part 1)
2. Top mountaineering tips – 5 part series: part 5
3. Top mountaineering tips – 5 part series: part 3

The Masterclass is split between 2 DVDs:

• Part 1 – Techniques and training
• Part 2 – Skills and tactics for sport and trad

Both DVDs deserve a complete review of their own, so I’m going to split the review into 2 separate posts.

DVD 1 contents:

Technique

Before delving into more complex movements, Neil starts by breaking down the various types of hand and footholds, and gives very clear and precise information on how to use them. Each technique is accompanied by close up video footage, leaving you in no doubt as to what is required.

He then moves onto the concepts behind good climbing. The whole idea behind it being about efficiency of movement, and using perfect style and poise to get the best results by conserving as much strength and energy as possible. He breaks this down into 3 major components; precise footwork, fluid movement and correct pace.

The next part is one of my favourite parts on the film. Neil covers the techniques used for climbing on steep rock, then how to climb on sloping rock with sloped holds. The best part about is that he breaks every movement down into its core components, each illustrated with video demonstrations (the right way and the wrong way). I got so much from this part of the video. I found myself wishing I had seen this 2 years ago.

Throughout both DVDs Neil includes example ascents where he provides a commentary of what the climber is doing correctly and what they could do better. These real-world examples are really superb.

Training

Neil really drives home the importance of warming up and the effect it can have on your climbing performance. There’s a full sequence of movements and stretches to get you prepared for climbing at your best.

The next part covers the different types of strength used in climbing; static strength, dynamic strength, power, contact strength and body tension. Neil provides an intelligent program for improving in all these areas.

Conclusion

Neil Gresham, Masterclass is not a new film. It was released way back in 2005. I really don’t think it matters at all. To my knowledge there have been no miracle advances in footwork or body positioning, and all the training advice makes perfect sense. The only thing that might have aged this film a little is the soundtrack.

If you want a guide to improving your technique and strength, this is the best piece of media I have found to date. It’s so much easier to understand when you see the movements broken down in video format that it is to try to understand a diagram or photograph.

It is pricey, at nearly £40 for the 2 volumes (£19.95 each from The Climbing Book Shop), but much less than hiring a climbing coach, and the advice contained within (if you follow it) will definitely improve your climbing. The night after watching these films I couldn’t sleep, I felt like I had been given a massive injection of knowledge and I couldn’t wait to put it into practice. The very next day I was at the wall looking for routes to try my new techniques. Armed with a new level of understanding, I noticed an immediate improvement.

Improve your climbing – Masterclass with Neil Gresham (part 1) is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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The long awaited follow up to the Alastair Lee’s first Psyche film, for me is one of those films that is actually better the second time you watch it. The first viewing of a sequel to a film as massive as Psyche carries with it a huge expectation. By the second viewing you’ve left that behind you and you can just get on with enjoying the film.

The DVD is 75 minutes long with 20 minutes of extras. The main features are:

The Prophet

This is undoubtedly the main feature of the DVD. It’s 43 minutes long and features an enormous mission; Leo Houlding, accompanied by Britain’s manliest man, Jason Pickles, attempts to climb his nine year project on El Cap. Leo describes the route as the hardest he has ever attempted, and when you watch the crack section and ‘Devil’s Dyno’ you’ll understand why. There’s some big falls, screaming tantrums and some top quality banter in this epic film. A must watch. The only thing I wasn’t keen on was Leo Houlding’s hat… You’ll see what I mean.

Hollow Caves

For the second chapter of the film we get to see some terrific deep water soloing from Neil Gresham in Pembrokeshire. Watch out for great climbing on new, steep routes and cameraman Dave Reeves in his underpants.

Oceans of Fear

Leo Houlding meets a man called Joe (whom he’s never met before) in a petrol station and together they attempt to onsight ‘Oceans of Fear’, a big wall route on The Klein Winter Hoek, South Africa. The climb takes on a combination of trad and bolted routes, and sees amazing climbing from both Leo and ‘Joe Mohle’.

Dusk till Dawn

In this film we’re back in Pembroke to witness Dave Pickford taking an amazing line up some pink and blue coloured limestone at Huntsman’s Leap. There’s some extremely bold climbing, quality editing on the interviews and some really funny comments from Alastair lee. Watch out for some ‘I’m ever so pretty’ posing from Dave at the end. I don’t know who’s worst, Dave for posing or Alastair for filming it!

Bleed in Hell

Mary Jenner heads off to Borrowdale with trad-legend husband Dave Birkett to climb his route ‘Bleed in Hell’. Dave adopts an interesting ‘relaxed’ belay position, laid on the ground , whilst Mary destroys the route. The hardest trad route completed by a female climber in the UK.

As with all Posing Productions DVDs there’s some nice extras. Watch out for Alastair Lee’s 5 year old son enjoying some slab climbing.

If you fancy a copy of the DVD, we have some over at The Climbing Book Shop: Psyche 2

Climbing DVD review – Psyche 2 by Posing Productions is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

If you liked this post, you might also like:

1. Climbing DVD review: Psyche by Posing Productions
2. Climbing DVD review – Grit Flick, from Posing Productions
3. Climbing DVD review – The Asgard Project

Many of these DVD’s feature big wall climbing in exotic locations and far flung destinations, so on the face of it Grit Flick, shot in windy, hilltop locations around England had the potential to feel a bit disappointing.

In actual fact, grit flick is really inspiring. It’s great to watch talented, local rock athletes working hard problems at crags most climbers based in England will either know or of have visited.

The DVD is split into a selection of individual, short films, each about a particular climb or bouldering problem.

I won’t go into describing every climb on the DVD, but the highlights for me were…

Gerty Berwick E9 / 8a+ – A first ascent at Ilkley’s Cow and Calf by Ryan Pascal

Everyone from Jerry Moffatt to Steve McClure had previously tried and failed to climb what is now described as ‘the hardest climb on grit’. My heart was in my mouth for much of Ryan’s ascent!

Slab and crack E7/8 6c – Curbar climbed by Lucy Creamer

I found it fascinating to hear Lucy describe what brought her to the point of wanting to lead the route, having already climbed it on a top rope (a practice I agree with for potentially dangerous routes with sparse protection). She also raises some really interesting points about route description ethics.

Rhylstone Highball boulder problem – First ascent by Ben Bransby

This is a scary, highball problem, with the crux at well over half height. A really ballsy ascent from Ben.

National Acrobat E6 6c – Ramshaw Rocks

James McHaffie and Ben Bransby take it turns to see who’ll be first to top out on what looks like a really tough crux. I liked this film because of the confidence they show in the protection, falling time and time again on a cam beneath the crux. Something I’ve had a bit of a problem with so far.

If like me you like to spend your time climbing at gritstone crags across Yorkshire and Derbyshire, you will love this DVD.

If you fancy a copy, head over to the climbing book shop: Grit Flick DVD

Climbing DVD review – Grit Flick, from Posing Productions is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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The DVD is divided into handy chapters for quick reference

• Introduction
• Climbing techniques
• Roped climbing
• Runners
• The belay
• Lead climbing
• Abseiling
• Bouldering
• Ratings and guides
• Knots
• Equipment
• Learning to climb

I was particularly impressed with the techniques section, there’s quality advice for both beginners and intermediate climbers alike.

The runners and belay sections provide excellent instruction that’s really clear and easy to follow.

All disciplines are covered from bouldering to trad climbing.

I would have enjoyed the DVD more had it been shot in the UK with UK climbers but that’s a minor point.

If you’re new to climbing and you want to do a bit of studying I would highly recommend you give this a look.

If you fancy a copy we have some over at the climbing book shop: ‘Climb When Ready – A Course In Rock Climbing‘

Climbing DVD review – Climb When Ready, A Course In Rock Climbing is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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The premise of the film is that top climber Leo Houlding embarks on a mission to climb a really big wall on the south west face of Mt. Asgard. This intimidating Peak is situated on Baffin Island, North East of Canada, in the Arctic Circle. Having scaled the huge wall, the intention is to then take a wing-suit BASE jump from the top.

As with most of director Alastair Lee’s movies, there’s plenty of content. After outlining his mission, we join Leo and his friend Carlos Suarez on a training trip to Riglos in Spain. To ready themselves for some big wall climbing they attempt to climb 2 x 300 metre cliffs in 2 hours. This entails climbing at opposite ends of the ropes, moving together on 7a/7b climbing, then BASE jumping from the top. Thrilling stuff!

We’re then whisked off to Mount Brento in Italy for Wingsuit training from a 1400m overhanging cliff. Incredible footage featuring one of my all time favourite drum and bass tracks in the background (B complex, Beautiful Lies).

With the wing-suit training done, it’s off to Yosmite Park for more big wall training, this time with Sean Stanley Leary. There’s a little bit of a teaser about the ascent of ‘the Prophet’, featured on Psyche 2.

The actual mission to climb Mt Asgard is high drama from the start; A skydive onto a glacier with all the gear parachuted in. There’s a big sense that it’s a really big mission. The climb is a good few days’ hike from civilization. You wouldn’t want anything to go badly wrong. Plenty of stuff does go wrong! I don’t want to give too much away about the mission, but like all the best adventures, there’s hardship, beards, tantrums, humour and camaraderie. The expedition team come across as solid blokes and I felt awestruck at their ability to stay positive in some really tricky situations.

This is a fabulous film, I can highly recommend it to anyone with an interest in adventure.

If you fancy a copy, head over to The Climbing Book shop to purchase: The Asgard Project

Climbing DVD review – The Asgard Project is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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This climbing DVD is divided into 3 parts

Part 1 focuses on the truly remarkable Sheffield lad, Steve McClure. Steve’s humble demeanour combined with his breathtaking ability makes him a real pleasure to watch. Steve gives us a masterclass in climbing technique on some seriosly steep, crimpy crags. Some of the holds he has to use for these ascents have to be seen to be believed.

The action takes in Steve, completely destroying “Mutation – 9a” on Raven Tor, ‘Northern Lights – 9a” on Kinsey and the mighty “Overshadow 9a+” at Malham Cove.

In an interview, Steve admits that he isn’t the most powerful climber at his level. It’s clear that his ability comes from his flawless technique and unfathomable mental strength. If you want to improve your climbing technique, this is the man to watch.

Part 2 is entitled ‘Patagonian Winter’ and features Ian Parnell and Hull lad, Andy Kirkpatrick in an expedition to climb an awe inspiring peak in Patagonia.

The peak in question is Toreega (apologies if that is an incorrect spelling) . Ian starts by explaining that it has only been climbed half a dozen times in summer and never never climbed in winter! Guess what season they decide to go…. The line up the 1000m + peak is described as being about an E1 in summer. You can only imagine the winter grade.

The expedition is an extremely serious endeavour. It is fascinating to follow Ian and Andy as they make life and death decisions along the way. The pair manage to maintain a fabulous sense of humor throughout the film despite enduring some pretty horrendous conditions.

This could quite easily be my favourite mountaineering film, ever!

Part 3 follows trad superstar Dave Birkett trad climbing a monster route on the Isle of Skye.

This part of the DVD starts with version of ‘Visit Scotland’ TV ad, which if you have ever been to Scotland you will find hilarious.

We’re then taken to Skye to watch Dave tackle a huge trad route. Once again it’s great to hear familiar Yorkshire dialect (and some top quality swearing). It makes me proud to be a Yorkshire man myself.

It’s really interesting to watch the approach to climbing a barely climbed before route, having only climbed very well documented routes myself.

As with the rest of the DVD, the scenery is fantastic. It certainly cemented my decision to have a go at the Black Cuillin Ridge on Skye this summer.

Overall this DVD is a great buy. I can’t recommend it enough. I felt completely inspired by the end.

Now I just need to get outdoors and climb. Roll on summer!!!

Climbing DVD review: Psyche by Posing Productions is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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