Home > Climbing Techniques > Climbing techniques – hand jamming

Climbing techniques – hand jamming

Climbing Techniques | | March 13, 2011 4:07 am

Continuing with our climbing basics series, designed for those of you who are new to climbing, this week we’re going to look at the various types of hand jam.

Jamming is used where the rock features a crack in which you can jam your hand, fist, finger or in some cases forearm, rather than pulling down on a hold. In most cases you don’t actually pull down on a jam, it is used to stabilise the upper body as you push up from your legs.

Hand jamming

Hand jamming can be done thumb facing up or down. The aim is to make the jam as secure as possible. Place your hand in the crack then draw you fingers in and tuck your thumb in. This will increase the volume of your hand in the crack, creating more pressure and a more secure jam.

Fist jamming

Fist jamming relies quite heavily on the crack that you want to jam being slightly narrower than the width of your fist. Place your hand into the crack then make a fist, squeezing to make the jam secure.

Finger jamming

Finger jamming works best when there is a constriction in the crack you want to jam. Choose the correct finger for the width of the crack (usually the index or middle finger), once placed, bend your finger to make it wider and more tightly jammed. Be very careful with this technique. If your feet slip and your finger is well jammed, you will almost certainly dislocate your finger at the very least!

Happy jamming!

It's good to share!

Written by

Gareth Hanson is a hugely enthusiastic climber and the editor of Rock Climbing UK (this very website!), an online rock climbing magazine for UK climbers. Check out RCUK's Twitter account here.

See all posts by .

Tags: , ,
  • http://www.facebook.com/pauloone paulo

    Really great series. I’ve been sharing them and they are all received well.

  • http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk Gareth Hanson

    Hey thanks man. Much appreciated :)

  • Bryony

    Brilliant videos, I’m trying to employ the techniques each time I go. As a newbie figuring this out for myself, it’s really helping me with technique when I’m not able to learn from more experienced climbers in the flesh. Cheers.

  • http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk Gareth Hanson

    Thanks Bryony,

    Are there any routes you can practice jamming, where you currently climb?

    We’ll have to try to find some cracks at the RCUK meetup for you :)

    Cheers, G