Home > Climbing equipment > Climbing equipment review: Red Chilli Spirit VCR, Impact Zone Velcro, climbing shoes

Climbing equipment review: Red Chilli Spirit VCR, Impact Zone Velcro, climbing shoes

Climbing equipment | Gareth Hanson | September 30, 2009 9:26 pm

I have been climbing in my Red Chilli Spirit VCR, Impact Zone climbing shoes since early summer 2009. I bought them as a replacement for my trusty Boreal Jokers, which had developed a hole in the toes after a year to 18 months of hard use.

So far the Red Chilli’s have proved to be excellent climbing shoes. They’re called “Impact Zone” because they have thick rubber padding on the heel, called the “Impact zone”. It’s useful on smaller crags where it’s not worth changing shoes to climb back down, and you occasionally find yourself jumping from rock to rock.

They’re a little edgier than the Jokers, so they seem to work a little better where you only have tiny footholds.

Red Chilli Impact Zone - climbing shoes

Red Chilli Impact Zone - climbing shoes

You’ll find excellent grip on most rock types, though I think they’re maybe not quite as sticky as the jokers. The rubber seems a little harder, which might mean they’ll last a bit longer. I’ll update you on that over the next year.

A bulbous heel with sticky rubber reinforcement makes heel hooks really effective.

I really like the convenience of the velcro straps, and unlike shoe laces they never come undone when you’re climbing.

Interestingly with the Red Chilli shoes, I had to go half a size smaller than I had with my Boreal Jokers. Size 7.5 compared with my previous size 8.

Post update April 2011: There’s a great selection of Red Chilli climbing shoes for both men and women here. The Spirit VCR has been remodeled. I’ll be most interested to hear what they’re like.

It's good to share!

Written by Gareth Hanson

Gareth Hanson is a hugely enthusiastic climber and the editor of Rock Climbing UK (this very website!), an online rock climbing magazine for UK climbers. Check out RCUK's Twitter account here.

See all posts by Gareth Hanson.

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  • Gareth Hanson

    Medium term update: OK, so I have had these climbing shoes for about 8 months now. They’re still in really good condition. The soles are not as sticky as my old Boreal Jokers, but they seem to be way more durable.
    I’ll post another update on these in another 6 months or so.

  • http://www.welovemountains.com Becky

    I’ve always found the rubber on Mammut and Sportiva better, it’s the Vibram rubber.

    Becky

  • http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk Gareth Hanson

    They have finally gone! This weekend’s climbing expedition to the Lakes has finished them off – both toes worn through.

    I still think they have been a solid shoe. They have lasted about 9 months, but I climb 2 -3 times per week now. When I had my Boreal Jokers I was only climbing 1-2 times per week.

    I’ll be popping in to see you about a new pair of climbing shoes this week Becky :)

  • http://www.welovemountains.com Becky

    It sounds like you’ve had your monies worth then, 9 months is good going. Hope you had fun in the Lakes and the weather was good.

  • http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk Gareth Hanson

    Weather was fantastic thanks. Really enjoyable day. I just realised that we did 10 hours of mixed climbing, scrambling and hiking with packs. No wonder I feel like I have been run over.

  • Chris H

    So which shoe would you recommend as a first show for a new climber? I’m just about to buy a pair and am considering the jokers. I tried a few others like the stingma and found em really painful on my big toes.

  • http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk Gareth Hanson

    Both the Boreal Jokers and the Red Chilli’s are as comfy as carpet slippers (or at least they were for me).

    I would recommend trying them on. Try as many pairs of climbing shoes as possible when you go to buy some. Don’t be afraid to keep the assistant running up and down for half sizes etc. Fit is everything – they need to be snug without giving you geisha feet.

    Good luck. Let me know what you went for and how you get on with them.

    Cheers, Gareth

  • Chris H

    Hi Gareth, Cheers for the tip; I was trying on shoes for at least 2 hours today! I tried both the Boreal Jokers and the Chili Impact Zone. Both were very comfy but maybe because I’m not used to having pressure on my toes, in both shoes after 10-15 mins of wearing them they became a bit painful.

    Since I want something for knocking around in the gym I lept looking and ended up with a pair of Evolv Royal. I prefered them as a) were a bit better shaped to my toes, b) i think they’re better looking (the jokers are pretty, ugly!) and c) they were on sale!

    all the best, Chris

  • http://rockclimbinguk.co.uk Gareth Hanson

    Good work! A good pair of climbing shoes that fit well will make the world of difference to your climbing.

    I haven’t tried the Evolv Royals, would love to hear how you get on with them. Perhaps you could write a review? :)

    Thanks for the update.

    Cheers, Gareth