Climbing books reviews: ‘Revelations’ by Jerry Moffatt

The autobiography of Jerry Moffatt titled ‘Revelations’, is exactly as the title suggests. Named after Jerry’s famous first ascent, the book is a unique insight into the life of a legendary climber. A climber that at his peak raised the international bar and set a new standard for climbing the world over, achieving groundbreaking first ascents and rapid repeats of the worlds most difficult routes. For over two decades Jerry dominated the sport of climbing, establishing some of the most famous routes ever set, popular climbs and stunning lines include the E7 6b ‘Masters Wall’ at Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, ‘Ulysses’ (E6 6b Stanage, UK) and of cause . . . ‘Revelations’ (F8a+ Raven Tor, UK)

“I can’t reverse the moves I have made to get here. I am fully committed”*

From the outset Jerry’s motive becomes very clear, to become the best climber in the world, a relentless pursuit that he undoubtedly achieved at his peak, winning the World Cup at Leeds in 1989. Niall, Jerry’s ghostwriter, actually points out that an extended list of his climbs could quite easily fill another book, which it very impressive.

“I could barely straighten my arms. The shocks that ran down them became agony. I could almost feel them falling apart”*

Moffatt writes of how he overcame an agonising elbow condition, which threatened his climbing career by means of (at that time – 1986), unprecedented surgery performed by Professor Feldmaier of The Olympic hospital (Munich). Jerry not only regained fitness he was training again within 7 months and competing within one year, achieving 6th at the Troubat climbing competition in 1987.

“‘We can’t fly to Goa,’ Johnny said ‘ We need to suffer a bit more to get the authentic experience’”*

The book not only tells the story of Jerry’s life it takes you along on his travels around the world, from his first climbing experiences in Llandudno, to the gritstone of Sheffield, ‘Super Injin’ in Ogawayama (Japan) and Yosemite, home of the epic El Capitan (USA) to name just four climbing destinations detailed within the book.

Rarely, in my opinion, is a climbing read so inspiring that it actually motivates the reader to try that little bit harder at the next crag visit, encouraging one to push that little bit further, pinching that crimp a little harder and crank right to the top . . . which is exactly the impact it had upon me.

‘Revelations’, winner of the Banff Mountain Book Festival award, is an absolute must read for any climber, a real page-turner from start to finish. I have to say that never have I become so engrossed in an autobiography, a testament I guess to the truly inspiring life and work of Jerry Moffatt.

*Quotes taken directly from ‘Revelations’ By Jerry Moffatt (with Niall Grimes), Vertebrate Publishing, 2009.

It’s available to buy for just £12.99 from The Climbing Book Shop.