You may or may not be familiar with the popular social networking site that is Twitter – if you are, great … if not, where the hell have you been for the last few years?! Anyhow, insults aside, I use Twitter. Regularly.

If you do use Twitter, then you may or may not be aware of the ‘Tweeter’ that is Mr. Andrew Bisharat. Andrew is one of the Senior Editors at Rock and Ice magazine. He goes by the moniker of @eveningsends which is also the name of his popular blog/website. A while back now I saw a tweet from Mr. Bisharat talking about a podcast that he was to appear in called The Enormocast.

Curious to know more, I downloaded it and listened. It was good. No, it was excellent and so I downloaded the three previous episodes. Now, the show is in double figures and I’m hooked.

I caught up with host, producer, publicist, composer, cleaner, driver and general dogsbody of the show, Chris Kalous, to find out more:

Chris Kalous

Who is Chris Kalous?

I grew up mostly in the suburbs of Chicago Illinois. I was into rock and roll and the outdoors, in that order, but never climbed growing up. I moved to Colorado to attend University and started climbing there. It turns out I was a better rock climber than rock guitarist, so I went with that (though I still play guitar because women like it more than the climbing). I am poor and not married. It seems that everything I spend time and energy doing doesn’t earn me money, but does earn me friends and great experiences so I got that going for me.

For all of the RCUK readers that live in caves … In three words, what is a podcast? 

Its funny, because this is like the biggest thing I’m up against with getting the word out with climbers “Uh, like on the internet?” “How do I get it again?” “Itunes?” … so three words?

• Free ear candy
• Free internet interviews
• Like Internet NPR (that’s American)
• Like Internet BBC
• BBC but better
• Free roadtrip entertainment
• Itunes free shit
  

Why ‘The Enormocast’ … what’s in the name?

The name comes from an obscure reference in the movie This is Spinal Tap (the quote at the beginning of The Enormocast is from Spinal Tap). I wanted to call it The Enormodome but enormodome.com was taken. Nothing like the internet to show you just how unoriginal every thought you have really is. All the different permutations of climbing names climbinglife.com, climbup.com, climbingthis.com, climbingthat.com, blah, blah, blah were all taken. My friend said it has to be more connected to climbing- he works at Black Diamond- I said “what do the words Black and Diamond have to do with climbing? Or Sportiva? Or Petzl? Or Wild Country?” Anyway, I figured “enormous” is the word you think of when you see El Cap, and its all encompassing, and I love the movie Spinal Tap, and its not the stupid “goes to eleven” reference everyone knows, and… leave me alone, I like the name!

Why should people listen to ‘The Enormocast’?

I have been consuming climbing media forever, and I’ve watched it become more and more whitewashed and commercial. The Enormocast is, and will remain, authentic and true to the rebellious spirit of climbing. Podcasting is the pirate radio of today, no corporate filters, and its the perfect medium for deep information about our sport. I love short videos, but they have no character, no depth. Podcasting can bring that depth. Also, personality comes through more than on the written page as you here someone’s tone, laughter, concern. Also, I really do know a lot of interesting and famous (not necessarily the same thing) climbers from a few generations and have been climbing all over the world for a long time.

Who’s been your favourite ‘guest’ so far, who would you love to feature in the future (why)?

So far is not very long, but the two Hayden Kennedy interviews seem to have really hit the mark of the potential of podcasting.

If you had to listen to one podcast for the rest of your life, other than The Enormocast, what would it be?

The rest of my life? Probably, like everyone else in the States, This American Life because its so well done and can make you cry and laugh in the same episode. I don’t know if its popular in the UK, but its number one here in the States. Its actually a radio show that is just podcasted afterword so that’s one reason its so good- money and a big talented well-payed staff. One of my favorite Do-It-Yourself podcasts is ‘Uhh Yeah Dude‘, two California guys just shooting the shit, but I could see myself getting annoyed with them if it was all I had and eventually wanting to kill them both then I’d have to listen to them on reruns in prison.

Thanks so much Chris, hope you’re getting good weather over the pond and getting out climbing…

Thanks Liam. Actually, sorry to say but the weather here has been awesome and I have been climbing a ton. Hope it gets better there – like a light warm drizzle? that’s climbable in the UK, isn’t it?

So, for regular climbing banter filled with hilarity, debate, nonsense and fun, or simply as Chris eloquently put it … for ‘itunes free shit’, check out the Enormocast Website or check out ‘The Enormocast’ on iTunes. A new episode is released every two weeks.

Also, although Chris didn’t ask me to mention this specifically (…honest, he didn’t) … you can support ‘the cause’ by clicking here.

ENJOY!

THE ENORMOCAST – A slice of climbing life for your listening pleasure is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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Fiva is the true story of Gordon and his twin brother John’s, attempt at climbing a route named Fiva (pronounced Fever), on Store Trolltind, the highest mountain in the Romsdal region of Norway.

The adventure takes place in 1969. Gordon and brother John embark on a mission to climb the 6000ft Fiva route armed with a limited rack, 3 cheese sandwiches, 2 Cadbury’s Fruit & Nut bars and a lump of cheese. What could possibly go wrong?

Plenty!

What I really love about this book is how perfectly it captures the feelings that anyone that has done any kind mountaineering has experienced at some time or other; The anticipation, the apprehension, the satisfaction, the feeling you get when it slowly dawns on you that you’ve royally screwed up, the restorative decision making process. And unless you’ve suffered an epic of biblical proportions, a whole lot more…

The writing is detailed and descriptive without being flowery. The pace is flat out from the very first page. This is not a book you’ll slowly meander through over a period of months, it’s a high octane read that you’ll get through in less than a week.

In conclusion, if big, bold, bum twitching adventures are your cup of tea, you will certainly not be disappointed with this book.

Fiva was officially launched at the Outside Cafe in Hathersage last night.

I’ll be trying to get some copies for the climbing book shop, but in the meantime if you want a copy the RRP is £9.95. They’re already on sale at Outside and are due to be on sale in main branches of Waterstones and Amazon soon.

Fiva – An Adventure That Went Wrong, a Book by Gordon Stainforth is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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Coming soon …

…

What’s that we hear? You’ll never get bored of seeing those two British Warriors slaying the American dragon?

Told you so.

Century Crack Trailer is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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James McHaffie climbing 'Dawes Rides a Shovel Head' onsight. Raven Crag, Langdale

When we saw the following film at the Kendal Film Festival in November, we were blown away by the excellent stories unified & produced by Land & Sky Media. It’s the first film to feature at the festival from Land & Sky Media and it was received with a very warm welcome. It’s been a long time coming, but we managed to get hold of Dom Bush, the main man behind the film and steal a few words from him.

Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing is a three part film which gives an insight into the world of hard traditional ascents in the birthplace of rock climbing, the English Lake District. Featuring fantastic footage of first ascents and hard repeats of routes from E6 (5.12c) to E9 (5.13c) by Wild Country and Red Chili climbers Adam Hocking and James McHaffie, as well Lakes stalwarts Mike Przygrodzki and Stuart Wood, it also includes interviews and commentaries from Lakes legend and Wild Country climber Dave Birkett and the indefatigable Leo Houlding. It’s a sensitive and cinematic documentary film, that represents the Lakes and it’s characters in a simple and poignant way. And with sport climbing and bouldering gaining popularity, this film provides a deep and sometimes comical perspective on the great British trad climbing tradition.

Adam Hocking working 'Return of the King' on East Buttress Scafell

“My hope was to explain, promote and maintain the heritage and tradition within the climbing community in the Lake District, of which I am now a part. To celebrate some of its modern pioneers and their very individual qualities, and to readdress the balance, by placing equal importance on the person, the landscape, and the activity.”

“I would like to thank all the individuals involved in this project, they shaped it just as I did, and I’m very grateful for their contribution. And of course, the sponsors, who have shown their support all the way through, as well as providing valuable bits of kit for this and future projects. Wild Country, Red Chilli, The Epicentre and Alpkit.”

Dom filming Stuart Wood on the first ascent of 'The Big Link', Hodge Close Quarry

There are exciting things afoot, so keep an eye on what’s going on with Land and Sky Media. You can follow on Facebook – http://www.facebook.com/landandskymedia

Or keep up to date with content and inspiration on the Land & Sky Media blog – http://landandsky.wordpress.com/

All Photos from Dom Bush & Matt Pycroft

Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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“The joy of climbing is a private thing between me and climbing…Our relationship is complicated” Andy Kirkpatrick

The US magazine Climbing once described Andy Kirkpatrick as a climber with a “strange penchant for the long, the cold and the difficult”, with a reputation “for seeking out routes where the danger is real, and the return is questionable, pushing himself on some of the hardest walls and faces in the Alps and beyond, sometimes with partners and sometimes alone.”

I think it’s fair to suggest that Andy Kirkpatrick is at the forefront of extreme alpinism and mountaineering as we know it. Not only this, Kirkpatrick  is a wonderfully talented speaker and author, touring around the world regaling his tales to crowds of people with his humour injected presentations.

As you will know from our recently featured Cold Wars review, Cold Wars is the second in a series of autobiographical style books from the man himself.

So far it has received widespread critical acclaim and is being hailed as one of the finest pieces of mountain literature to hit the shelves, ever.

One such review is that of John Horscroft. Below are a collection of his observations and evaluations:

“His prose may verge on the miserabalist at times but, for those who prefer a bit of meat on the bare bones of a climbing tale, this amounts to a feast.”

“…Kirkpatrick allows us to see into his troubled mind with punishing clarity in an almost unprecedented fashion. He illuminates the barely suppressed fury of the professional climber…”

Visual Collective, based in Manchester have worked with Andy to put together a short video about the book and some of the motives and feelings behind why Andy does the things he does.

I’ll say no more … enjoy:

About Andy Kirkpatrick:

Brought up on a council estate in one of Britain’s flattest cities, Hull-born Andy suffered from severe dyslexia which went undiagnosed until he was 19. One of his greatest strengths is his ability to talk about his life and his climbs in a way that is totally accessible to the non-climber and allows the audience to experience the risk and tension of big wall climbing. Andy is sponsored by Patagonia, Petzl, OR & La Sportiva. If you get minute, check out Andy’s excellent web site.

About Visual Collective:

Visual Collective is a multimedia production studio. They manage commercial and documentary video & photography projects that engage, enrich and inspire. Based close to Manchester city centre; right at the heart of the city’s creative industries they encompass over 10 years of experience in visual story telling and project management and are rated as a RAR+ Recommended Agency. The VC team has a wide range of talent and expertise; with roots in the video, photojournalism and design industries. They have come together under a single vision to create compelling content that harnesses the power of multi-platform media.

COLD WARS – Video Profile is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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It’s that time of year again when the climbing community of the world is getting ready to flock to Kendal for a weekend of the finest films, beer & banter.

We thought we’d get you in the mood with a trailer for a film premiering at the festival this year…

Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing from Land and Sky Media is a three part film, giving an insight into the world of hard traditional ascents in the birthplace of rock climbing, the English Lake District. With sport climbing and bouldering gaining popularity, this film provides a deep and sometimes comical perspective on the great British trad climbing tradition. A sensitive and cinematic documentary film, that represents the Lakes and it’s characters in a simple and poignant way. The film features first ascents and hard repeats from Mike Przygrodzki, Stuart Wood, Adam Hocking and James McHaffie and interviews from Dave Birkett and Leo Houlding.

Make sure you seek it out and watch it…and don’t forget, if you like it VOTE at the People’s Choice Award. It’s awards like this that can really thrust new film makers into the spotlight and Dom Bush at Land and Sky Media deserves the recognition.

From all at RCUK, good luck Dom!

Islands Trailer is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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Andy Kirkpatrick is a man who’s not afraid to look unflinchingly at himself in the mirror, and he’s not afraid to write about what he finds.

Covering Kirpatrick’s life from June 2001 to January 2005, the book takes in Sheffield, Wales and Hull alongside the more glamorous and predictable locations of the Alps, the USA and Patagonia. The testing climbs are described in minute and loving detail: the gear used, the bivvy spot, the food and drink remaining. Often, it seems, disaster strikes and so you chuckle along with Andy’s tales of leaving a crucial bag of karabiners and nuts in the back of a taxi on his way to Patagonia, or of dropping a haulbag and portaledge from the Dru. The dry humour and gift for self-deprecation that Kirkpatrick has long displayed are certainly present here, and he even directs a disparaging look at Ian Parnell on one occasion, as his frequent climbing partner has a series of mishaps with a range of expensive cameras.

Despite often undercutting the stories of his climbing with humour at his own expense, Kirkpatrick acknowledges that there is truth in Ian Parnell’s assessment of him as “the most ambitious climber he’d met”. Kirkpatrick has always been ready to look more deeply into his motivations, and Cold Wars provides the clearest insight yet into the mind of a world-class alpinist.  Reflecting on a trip to the Alps with Parnell in 2003, Kirkpatrick comments that “each route [is about] chasing that feeling of being on the edge between success and failure, life and death” and his drive to succeed, to prove himself to the mountaineering community and to justify the conflict he feels in leaving behind his family to go to the mountains, is evident throughout the book. In many ways, I found myself being reminded of the picture painted of Don Whillans by Jim Perrin in his biography The Villain; a strange mixture of insecurity covered by a shield of arrogance and a determination to prove himself, a chippy working-class Northerner uncomfortable when surrounded by ‘middle class public schoolboys’ on the ski slopes of the Alps

Throughout the book, Andy explores his own relationship with his (mostly) absent father, and his ability to summon up his childhood feelings casts an especially poignant light on his feelings about his own children when he finds himself in dangerous or unpleasantly hazardous positions. His self-imposed struggles are also compared to those endured by his brother Robin, one of the few non-climbers within the book’s pages, who served as a crew member on RAF Hercules planes. The final chapter of the book, in which Rob’s life seems to hang in the balance as Hercules is shot down over Iraq, is a moving testament to the enduring power of family ties, ties which Kirkpatrick had often resented when comparing his life to that of his peers.

Andy Kirkpatrick

In the preface, Kirkpatrick says that while Psychovertical answered the question “Why do you climb?”, Cold Wars asks the question “What is the price?”. Although the explicit question is about Kirkpatrick’s own choices and the impact on his family, throughout the book both he and the reader are left contemplating the choices of those climbers who pay the ultimate price. Scattered throughout the book are the names of climbers who died in earlier decades, and stories of those Kirkpatrick has known personally who have suffered injuries, accidents or not returned at all.  His final chapter suggests that Kirkpatrick has the will to try and resolve the conflicts he faces, to fulfil both family and climbing ambitions. A book that is moving, powerful and hugely entertaining, often within a single chapter, Cold Wars joins Psychovertical as one of the new classics of mountaineering literature.

If you would like a copy…

• Andy Kirkpatrick – Cold Wars from Andy’s web site
• Andy Kirkpatrick – Cold Wars from The Climbing Book Shop

Andy is touring the UK during November, giving a series of talks about Cold Wars. All the details can be found on the Speakers from the Edge website.

Cold Wars – Andy Kirkpatrick is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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Directed by Jon Glassberg & Carlo Traversi

In The Swiss Account we see three American climbers head over to Switzerland to test their mettle on some of the hardest problems on the continent and furthermore, the planet. The film follows Connor Griffith, Jon Glassberg & Carlo Traversi as they travel for two months around some of the most popular bouldering venues in Switzerland including Cresciano & Chironico. There are also guest appearances from a cast of stars including fellow Americans Alex Puccio and Paul Robinson, Frenchman Lucas Menegatti and Czech wonder-kid Adam Ondra.

The film starts off very… ‘American’ (you’ll see what I mean…) and when I watched the opening credits, not being one for gratuitous cheese, a very big part of me wanted to press the off button there and then. However, I persevered and I’m pleased that I did. The bouldering footage is excellent and showcases all of the climbers’ talents, particularly the likes of Traversi & Glassberg. There are superb classic hard-ticks in there such as Steppenwolf font8b, Boogalaga font 8b, The Dagger font 8b+and a personal favourite, The Never Ending Story font 8b+.

Alongside the climbing footage there is also a lot of ‘video diary’ style content. I’m pretty sure that some people will HATE this. I felt that it broke up the climbing nicely, and with the film being almost an hour long I believe this to be important. It is fair to say it kept me interested from start to finish. This material also gives an insight into the mentality, banter and spirit of a group of friends on a climbing trip; an experience that all boulderers know and love.

All of this is complemented by slick editing and an exciting soundtrack featuring various dubstep, electro and dance artists such as Flux Pavillion, DJ Fresh & Deadmau5.

One of the most important things that should be discussed in this review is the price of The Swiss Account. I think that climbing films can have a reputation as being a bit ‘pricey’ with some downloads being in excess of £15, and DVD’s generally costing around the £20 mark. this film breaks all those preconceptions with a pleasant surprise. It’s FREE. That’s correct, FREE. You can download a full, feature length climbing film, without parting with a single penny, by clicking on the link at the bottom of this page. Fabulous.

I’m going to leave the review there now, for two reasons: The first, I have said pretty much everything that needs to be said about the film. The second reason being that I suspect 99% of you will now be frantically searching for the link to download The Swiss Account immediately, and to be perfectly honest, I don’t blame you!

Enjoy!!!

The Swiss Account, Climbing Film is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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The viewer is treated to slick editing and for the most part high quality footage. The climbing is accompanied and complemented by a fantastic soundtrack of electro and contemporary hip-hop beats from artists such as Pyramid, Glitch Mob, & Gramatic to name three.

Paul gives a running commentary throughout the film of the problems he tries  (…and ultimately succeeds on) highlighting the difficulties and intricacies of the problem. Some may find it depressing to find out how hard the problems actually are, especially compared to the relative ease with which P-Rob dispatches them…pay particular attention to the close-up of his fingers when he successfully sends Angama, the word grim doesn’t even come close to describing that one.

At 20 minutes long this film is the perfect length to watch when you want to get psyched in your coffee break at work, ready for an evening session and is also a good one if you have a particularly short attention span.

The final bonus about the film is the price. Available from HDclimbingvideos.com the download is priced at $6.99 which works out at around £4.29. BARGAIN.

Awesome bouldering, inspiring soundtrack, superb commentary and a whole load of psyche, ALL for under a fiver?! What more can I say?
Do what I did…download it. Watch it. Watch it again … Go bouldering. Then watch it some more!

The Schengen Files – Film Review is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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3. Climbing DVD review – Psyche 2 by Posing Productions

Climbing Wall Essentials is a skills and techniques guide written by experts for climbers of all abilities. I’ll try to get hold of a review copy and give you some more information. Though if it’s like other BMC training videos it should be top drawer!

As far as I can see, it hasn’t appeared in the BMC Online shop yet, but I’ll keep an eye out and let you know when it does.

New Climbing Walls Essentials DVD from The BMC is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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